Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Jarvis Pass - Part 3 - Introducing Mr. Bovil

Fort George, B. C., 19th Dec., 1874.



On the 13th, we were 45 miles from Quesnelle, having had some fearfully bad trail over side hill and deep snow. Of course, side hills are good enough for mule trains but when you try dogs, you will find they won't work worth a cent. The dogs go straight enough but the sled will not keep after them, being more inclined to seek the valley below. So as you can imagine it requires a good deal of work and patience to keep the sled in the road while the dogs haul.

The 13th was Sunday, and we had a very heavy fall of snow, but wore able to make 12 miles that day. As the snow was now very heavy I gave my train to Johnny and went ahead with Jarvis, who in addition to the work of breaking track had been very busy all the time counting his stops, so as to get the correct distance. Henceforth I shared his labour, and I can't say that I like pacing distances. Hard work it is to break track, but when you have anything to think of it is pleasanter. But when you walk all day and think of nothing but 1, 2, 3, &c., &c., it is monoto­nous enough for anything. However, all this is a part and a necessary one of the proposed exploration, and I shan't growl at anything we have had so far.

We had a hard bit of work at the Blackwater River, 50 miles from Quesnelle. The river is bridged by poles and telegraph wire, but on this side it is bare ground and the hill is very steep indeed. The poor dogs did their best to get up, but the end of the matter was that we hauled the loads and they looked on. I went back to my own train, and with three men hauling, we got it up at last, but lam afraid my whip did more than its share of duty that day. We got on top of the hill about noon, and had rest and lunch there. We now had about two feet of snow, which was very soft and clung to our snowshoes in great masses; it was also very hard on the dogs, this wading through snow, only freshly beaten down by two pair of snowshoes.

On account of the heavy snow we had, on the 16th, to make another cache (No.2) of provisions, stationery box, &c., and on the 17th one of our sleds rolled down a steep hide hill, and when recovered wasn't worth much, except as kindling wood. The dogs were all right; how they manage themselves I don't know, so we had to cache what stuff we could spare, put some on the one remaining sled, and take the rest on our backs, the four dogs running with only their harness to trouble them (Cache No. 3.)

I forgot to mention that after crossing the Blackwater we left the telegraph trail, which goes on north, and took a C. P. B. trail to Fort George. This latter is if possible a worse one than the telegraph trail. At noon on the 18th, as we were at lunch, an Indian from Fort George came along, and in reply to our questions said we wouldn't get to the fort that night, as it was " siah,”  a long way. This Indian had a small dog, on which had his kettle, blanket and grub, he himself carrying the axe and some fuel. Happy thought for us, why not make these beasts of ours do some of our work, and take the packs which are wearing our shoulders away. No sooner said than done, we loaded them and started, Jarvis ahead, counting one, two. three, I next, calling along the packed dogs, and Johnny behind, poking up the lagging ones with a stick. Alec drove the sled behind. It was a comic sight to see the dogs who had never packed before, go rolling from side to side with their loads. As sure as one would try to jump a log, the weight of the load would tumble him back, and if he did manage to get on the top of the log, the weight would tumble him forward in the snow, where he would lie till helped up, but they soon got used to it and were able to follow us, and we went at a good pace, being on a hard track and in a hurry. At any rate we got into Fort George about & p.m. that (last) night, though Alec and his train didn't arrive for some hours after. Distance by oar pacing, 125 miles from Quesnelle. By the river it would have been 83 miles. We spent 12 days on the way, one of which was at Pollock's. Greatest distance we did was on the last day, 23 miles. On the way, we had used up one sled completely, and the other is fit for nothing now. We made three caches, containing in all about two-thirds of our original loads. This looks bad for our future journey, of which this is scarcely a beginning, but the road we have come over is a most fearful one, while the river which we will follow from here will be much better. At any rate, and we express it, " the country is quite safe," meaning we are quite safe. 

The country between Quesnelle and here is wooded; in some places burnt over, in others green. It is very hilly and broken, and the trail generally runs from the top of one hill to the top of the next, making it first rate for a telegraph line, but very tough on the dogs and us. On the whole it is the worst place I ever saw to do this kind of travelling, and I shall never try it again.

We found Fort George in charge of Mr. Bovil, a son of the Chief Justice of England. With him is staying Charlie Ogden from Stewart's Lake Post. He, the latter, came down to help us get a fair start, and seems very ready to put us in the way of getting dogs, men, &c.

After supper last night, we lit our pipes, and we spent the evening discussing the plans to be adopted &c., &c. Ogden is pretty well posted in the country. Bovil is just out from England, and consequently very green in those matters. He is a gentleman and a good cook. As his rations in the H. B. Co. don't amount to more than 25 lbs. dried salmon per week, flour and tea in addition, he won't have much chance to exercise his knowledge of the culinary art!  At present he has killed one of his working oxen and we are living well. What he will do for his next year's crop I don't know, but he hates the sight of a dried salmon and I hardly wonder at it.
I'll put some more to this shortly.

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