"E.W. Jarvis, CE, and Major C.F. Hanington of Ottawa made an adventurous winter journey across the Rockies in 1875. The pass through which they crossed the mountains was named Jarvis Pass by the Geographic Board of Canada and the name Jarvis is also borne by a mountain on the south side of the pass opposite Mount Hanington. The exploration was undertaken to see if this route across the mountains would be a practicable one for the Canadian Pacific Railway. The elevation of the pass, about 5,000 feet, proved too high. The starting point of the journey was Quesnel, which was left on December 9, 1874, and a 1,000-mile journey, mostly on foot, occupying five and a half months, was concluded at Winnipeg on May 21, 1875." (extract from Natural Resources Canada, Ottawa, June 1927)
Source: BC place name cards, or correspondence to/from BC's Chief Geographer or BC Geographical Names Office
Camp No. 20, Near Turn into the Pass,
19th February, 1875.
My Dear Edward, —
On the 17th nothing of note occurred; on the 18th we met Alec, who had been to another fork, and didn’t know which one to take, as to him they both looked unpromising. We camped at the Forks, and I went up the South Branch, while the chief and Alec tried the north. We found that the river here takes a turn to the north, and that the South Branch is a short glacial stream, though looking at the place from here, you would think the mountains shut the whole place up. To-day Alec went off again and we spent a very jolly evening, having found what certainly seems to be a pass through the mountains. We are now 47 1/2 miles from the Forks, and have found this branch so far a great improvement on the north.
Camp 22, 21st February, 1875.
On the 20th we had a first-class trail and did seven miles before noon. Camped In Alec’s last camp, and a queer place it is. The valley is here about a mile wide, the river running through meadow and muskeg. Our camp is on an island in the centre, and all around are the mountains, some of them beautiful, if we only had the spirit to enjoy their beauty. To day it snowed all day, and of course the track was full before night, and not to be found. We did 11 miles though, and didn't say much, though we thought a good deal, I fancy. So far we haven’t been able to keep an open track more than one day. We have plotted up our work to this Camp No. 22, and find that in a straight line we are only nine miles from Camp 15, on the North Branch. If we had only known, what a lot of time and distance we could have saved, and our dogs would have escaped some 100 miles of travel, poor brutes; but as we didn't know it, it can’t be helped.
Camp 25, 24th February, 1875. AT THE SUMMIT.
My Dear Edward, —
On the 22nd we met Alec coming back as he didn't see the use of breaking track only to have it filled up by snowstorms, so we went 7 1/2 miles and camped with him, after that I broke track a few miles ahead.
On the 23rd we came to falls and canon after canon, and had a good deal of trouble in hauling along dogs and sleds too. I saw Jarvis stop once and begin to think over the situation, so I stopped, too, in fear and trembling, for I was afraid he would give it up. Presently he came along and said: “Frank, do you know what I was thinking of? " I said, “Yes; don’t go back for Gods sake. ” Well he said that if we all came to grief he would be responsible, and it was a bad look out now. But I told him I’d be responsible for myself, Alec didn't care about going back, and as for the Indians if they starved or not it didn't matter. So on we went to my great delight, for I’d sooner be found in the mountains than give up the ship. Though, so far as a railway is concerned, this pass is of no use.
After camping at the foot of a fall, the two of us walked on and climbed a mountain to 5, 500 feet. Here we saw an apparent fall to the east and our hearts beat high, so we returned to camp and said nothing.
To-day we made a portage and started the men getting the loads up the 2 miles, while we went forward to explore. We found the summit, think of it, at last. This branch flows out of a chain of 5 lakes which lie 5, 300 feet above the sea, then you cross a sort of muskeg containing a lake which flows nowhere, then a little more muskeg and a lake out of which trickles a tiny stream running to the east. We went down this stream about a mile to be certain, and then we took a drink of the blessed water, which was the sweetest thing I have drunk for many a day. A splendid view from summit. There are no high mountains in the far distance except one peak (Smoky Peak).It looks like a park inclining gently towards the east, studded with oak, and carpeted with grass (it would be if the snow were not so deep).
Smoky Peak resembles Mount Ida. One rises in striking grandeur to guard the western side of the pass, while the other guards the east. They both present the same aspect, solitary, with their white summits in the clouds, glaciers covering their sides to the line of vegetation, and then the blue and green of the forest covering, they are indeed grand sights and worthy of an artist's brush.
After the discovery of the water flowing east, we returned to camp in high spirits, hurrah, had a drink of Brandy-Hurrah, and had the pleasure of seeing the others as excited as ourselves. It was indeed a merry evening and one I won’t forget in a hurry. The country is quite safe now sure. There are 6 feet of snow at this camp and we have shovelled out camp to the ground. So our view is limited when we camp.
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