Jarvis Pass - Part 11 - Don't Give Up The Ship

"E.W. Jarvis, CE, and Major C.F. Hanington of Ottawa made an adventurous winter journey across the Rockies in 1875. The pass through which they crossed the mountains was named Jarvis Pass by the Geographic Board of Canada and the name Jarvis is also borne by a mountain on the south side of the pass opposite Mount Hanington. The exploration was undertaken to see if this route across the mountains would be a practicable one for the Canadian Pacific Railway. The elevation of the pass, about 5,000 feet, proved too high. The starting point of the journey was Quesnel, which was left on December 9, 1874, and a 1,000-mile journey, mostly on foot, occupying five and a half months, was concluded at Winnipeg on May 21, 1875." (extract from Natural Resources Canada, Ottawa, June 1927)
Source: BC place name cards, or correspondence to/from BC's Chief Geographer or BC Geographical Names Office

Camp No. 20, Near Turn into the Pass,

19th February, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

On the 17th nothing of note occurred; on the 18th we met Alec, who had been to another fork, and didn’t know which one to take, as to him they both looked unpromising. We camped at the Forks, and I went up the South Branch, while the chief and Alec tried the north. We found that the river here takes a turn to the north, and that the South Branch is a short glacial stream, though looking at the place from here, you would think the mountains shut the whole place up. To-day Alec went off again and we spent a very jolly evening, having found what certainly seems to be a pass through the mountains. We are now 47 1/2 miles from the Forks, and have found this branch so far a great improvement on the north.

Camp 22, 21st February, 1875.

On the 20th we had a first-class trail and did seven miles before noon. Camped In Alec’s last camp, and a queer place it is. The valley is here about a mile wide, the river running through meadow and muskeg. Our camp is on an island in the centre, and all around are the mountains, some of them beautiful, if we only had the spirit to enjoy their beauty. To day it snowed all day, and of course the track was full before night, and not to be found. We did 11 miles though, and didn't say much, though we thought a good deal, I fancy. So far we haven’t been able to keep an open track more than one day. We have plotted up our work to this Camp No. 22, and find that in a straight line we are only nine miles from Camp 15, on the North Branch. If we had only known, what a lot of time and distance we could have saved, and our dogs would have escaped some 100 miles of travel, poor brutes; but as we didn't know it, it can’t be helped.

Camp 25, 24th February, 1875.   AT THE SUMMIT.

My Dear Edward, —

On the 22nd we met Alec coming back as he didn't see the use of breaking track only to have it filled up by snowstorms, so we went 7 1/2 miles and camped with him, after that I broke track a few miles ahead.

On the 23rd we came to falls and canon after canon, and had a good deal of trouble in hauling along dogs and sleds too. I saw Jarvis stop once and begin to think over the situation, so I stopped, too, in fear and trembling, for I was afraid he  would give it up. Presently he came along and said: “Frank, do you know what I was thinking of? " I said, “Yes; don’t go back for Gods sake. ” Well he said that if we all came to grief he would be responsible, and it was a bad look out now. But I told him I’d be responsible for myself, Alec didn't care about going back, and as for the Indians if they starved or not it didn't matter. So on we went to my great delight, for I’d sooner be found in the mountains than give up the ship. Though, so far as a railway is concerned, this pass is of no use.

After camping at the foot of a fall, the two of us walked on and climbed a mountain to 5, 500 feet. Here we saw an apparent fall to the east and our hearts beat high, so we returned to camp and said nothing.

To-day we made a portage and started the men getting the loads up the 2 miles, while we went forward to explore. We found the summit, think of it, at last. This branch flows out of a chain of 5 lakes which lie 5, 300 feet above the sea, then you cross a sort of muskeg containing a lake which flows nowhere, then a little more muskeg and a lake out of which trickles a tiny stream running to the east. We went down this stream about a mile to be certain, and then we took a drink of the blessed water, which was the sweetest thing I have drunk for many a day. A splendid view from summit. There are no high mountains in the far distance except one peak (Smoky Peak).It looks like a park inclining gently towards the east, studded with oak, and carpeted with grass (it would be if the snow were not so deep).

Smoky Peak resembles Mount Ida. One rises in striking grandeur to guard the western side of the pass, while the other guards the east. They both present the same aspect, solitary, with their white summits in the clouds, glaciers covering their sides to the line of vegetation, and then the blue and green of the forest covering, they are indeed grand sights and worthy of an artist's brush.

After the discovery of the water flowing east, we returned to camp in high spirits, hurrah, had a drink of Brandy-Hurrah, and had the pleasure of seeing the others as excited as ourselves. It was indeed a merry evening and one I won’t forget in a hurry. The country is quite safe now sure. There are 6 feet of snow at this camp and we have shovelled out camp to the ground. So our view is limited when we camp.

Jarvis Pass - Part 10 - Falls as High as a Tree

The Forks, 13th February, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

The night before we left the camp (No. 15) at head of N. Branch of N. Fork of N. Fraser River, we had a heavy snowstorm, and consequently had no track to return on. This was expected, as so far it has always been the case. I won’t trouble you with a history of each day’s journey over familiar ground, except to say that the portages around the canons gave us as much trouble and hard work as the up trip. We got hero yesterday having done the 63 miles in 4 days. Capital time considering the road we had. It would have been amusing if not so serious, to see the number of times a sled had to be turned up to get the slush off its bottom in each mile. However, we arrived safely and are glad to be here. This morning Jarvis sent Alec, Johnny, and Ah Kho, ahead up S. Branch to make a trail, as ’tis the only way we can work at all. They took a hand sled as the snow is too deep to take dogs without a track. Tsayass and Te Jon were sent to Fort George with seven dogs and one sled. They are to got their provisions at my cache and seem to be delighted at the chance of going away. Before starting they said good bye to their Indian friends and said that was the last they would ever see of them. This was comforting to them to say the least of it. We sent Sam out by them, also Chun and Tyepaw, a Fort George dog, which I drove as long as he could go, and these with Tsayass' train made up the seven. We have been going over our supplies, and by a free use of the Multiplication Table, and some addition thrown in, we find that we still have one month's grub on hand. Just the same as we had two weeks ago, some sense in this kind of grub which gets larger every day. We have invented a scale by which we can weigh our stuff. 25 rifle cartridges make a pound is Alec’s belief, so on that we work, with a bag of cartridges on one end of a stick and some grub on the other, we lay out each day’s grub for each man, and the beauty of the arrangement is, that we can shorten the rations by taking out a few cartridges while it appears as if we were giving good weight. But it is cheating our own stomachs after all, and I would like one square meal occasionally.

Camp (17) 16th February, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

Early on the 14th we left camp, and wont up the South Branch. Imagine our disgust when 3 miles up we found Alec making a portage around a “ fall as high as a tree, ” we camped and the whole party went at it in the afternoon. The next day Alec left early to finish portage and go on ahead with the trail, while we took over half loads, dropped them at the end and came back to camp. This was the worst portage yet, very full of holes and hills and fallen trees, and dogs take advantage of these places, when they get stuck going up hill, and the driver takes the rope ahead to haul on, the brutes turn about and go; then after pulling and working your hardest you got them to the top, away they go down the other side, and no power on earth can stop them till they got to the bottom, whore when you reach it you will probably see sled and dogs piled in a confused heap and well used up, and it takes a good humoured man to get them started again without some swearing and a good deal of whip. I regret to say that I haven't a temper of that kind. The worst place in the trail was where it takes to the river again. Alec made that part of it, and I think he must have let his sled go. My dogs took a run when they got near the top and laughed when I Called “ Ulwa" ! I held on to the rope as long as I could and then go when dogs and sled disappeared. When I got to the edge a pretty sight met my view, about half way down stood a tree, on one side of this was the sled and on the other the dogs in a sweet state. Evidently they had been unable to got out of the way of the sled and tried a side trail with the above result; I cut the tree, and told them to go to below and they won't, the sled first and the dogs yelling and struggling after, lastly your humble servant who had some broken harness to mend and some bruised dogs to attend to when he got down. We went back to camp after the one trip and found Sam and Chun who had evidently broken away from their keepers.

This morning Jarvis shot them both after asking me to do so. I couldn't shoot Sam at any rate. He worked himself nearly to death for us, and it is too hard. But we haven't very many salmon for them now and can’t afford it. This was a very warm day with snow and drizzling rain, we got over the portage all right and camped in Alec’s camp of yesterday, 14 miles from the Forks; I hope we have got clear of those canons, a few more would kill our dogs completely, and our own condition wouldn't be improved by them.  For my own part I can only say that on this trip I have worked harder than ever before; physically I mean, otherwise there is little to do.

We are travelling through an unknown country without a guide and take things as they come. Good night.

CHAS.

Jarvis Pass - Part 9 - Worthless Pass

Camp No. 15, 8th February, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

On the 4th we had a very heavy snowstorm, just to make things lively I suppose. Jarvis left early with two men and a very light sled, while the rest of us spent the day in getting the stuff over the portage and through the canon. It was a bad trail and the late snow hadn't improved it at all. The first trouble was a steep hill, about 150 feet high, and it took us all to get. one sled up at a time. The dogs didn't seem to care for the place at all and when two men would be hauling and two pushing the sled, ten to one the dogs would turn about and go down the hill. Tough on the whip. However, we got everything over safely about 4 P. M. and camped at end of canon. The next morning we were off bright and early and went only a short distance before we struck another canon and fall and had to follow another portage made by Jarvis. It wasn't very bad and with 8 dogs on each sled we took the stuff over in fair style. The worst part was at the further end where the descent to the river was almost perpendicular. Here the sled invariably reached bottom before the dogs, though the latter did their level best to get out of the way. It was killing work on the beasts; how they stand it I can’t see.

After crossing the portage we had canon all the afternoon and after working hard, very hard all day, we camped just 6 miles from last camp. I broke track all day, Jarvis' trail having drifted full. I managed it thus: Started off about 5 miles an hour and walked away some distance, then back to the dogs and then forward again, hoping to give them the benefit of three pair of snow shoes. We didn't get to camp till 6 and the dogs couldn't have gone another mile. Poor beggars, sometimes I am sorry for them, but that don’t pay, we can’t afford to rest them or ourselves and we both need it.

On the 6th we had very warm weather which made it worse. We passed another fall, and had the usual amount of hauling, dog whipping and general hard work. Road bad enough for anything. Overflowed with water and no track visible, though Jarvis and men passed over it only the day before; at 10 A. M. on the 7th we came to the forks (No. 3) and I got a note from Jarvis with instructions to follow N. Fork up to where I'd find his sled. This I did and camped there. Jams came in in the evening, having been to head of South Branch and found no pass. He had also fired at a moose but the distance was too great and he didn't hit. A moose would be a great thing for us, as with it we could take a rest and food ourselves and dogs. Though we are not very hard up yet if the rations be a leetle small.

To-day 1 have been 7 miles up this the N. Branch. Above camp 1 mile is a fall of 200 feet which I went around via side of mountain, above that the river widens out and meanders through muskeg and meadow for three miles, then it gets rapid and canony and turns to north. Evidently it rises in the mounting and comes from glaciers.

Camp No. 15. Continued.

I turned when I had reached an elevation of 4, 000 ft., which is 250 ft. higher than the Yellow Head Pass; so that from an engineering point this branch a worthless. There is nothing left for us now but to retrace our stops to Camp No. 9 and try the south branch. This we will do to-morrow. We both feel that it is tough to turn back but the quality of the Smoky River Pass must be known and we are going to find it out. The Stewart Lake Indians are delighted, as they think we are going to Fort George. Johnny is as unmoved as ever, and Alec ready for anything. So good-night.

Yours sleepily,

C. F. H.

Jarvis Pass - Part 8 - North Fork of Fraser

Hanington’s Cache, January 28th, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

On the 27th Alec and Johnny, with two trains of dogs, left to bring up the sled I had cached at the mouth of the river. It snowed nearly all day and camp was most miserable in consequence. This morning we had a consultation and concluded that the Stewart Lake trains would fail to appear, so as we are bound to get through this pass, we set to work to make a toboggan to be drawn by ourselves. We had it in a good state about 5 P. M. when in came Alec and Johnny with trains, and with them three trains from Stewart's Lake. A very agreeable surprise to us, I can tell you, trains loaded with salmon and drawn by good looking dogs. The drivers are Hassiack, Ahkho, and Tsayass, smart looking fellows. So we are now in good trim and high spirits. We had letter from Bovil, who reports that the pugilistic Indian came to him and asked to be forgiven, so they are now friends and happy. Alec met the trains at the mouth of the river arid they made good time up here; I am delighted at the arrival, as I never was fond of hauling a toboggan through four or five feet of snow. Jarvis looks happy and relieved in mind.

I'll turn in now and finish the night thus.

Yours,

C. F. H.

The Fork, Camp No. 9, 30th Jan., 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

We spent the 29th in packing the sleds and getting everything ready for a start. We have now 5 trains of 19 dogs. Tiger was shot on the 29th, as his lameness prevented him from doing anything but eat grub. We had about one month’s grub when we came to examine it; that is one month’s full rations for men and dogs, but we won’t use lull rations, so it must last longer. We started bright and early this morning, and found the track, for the most part, drifted full, sometimes it would be visible and then we made good time, the new dogs doing very well.

We had to leave some bacon and beans in my cache, the dogs not being able to take all of it. We did 18 miles to-day, and our camp is at the Forks to-night. If this be the place meant by Quaw when he said 3 days’ journey to the Forks, we must have walked very slowly. I believe though that he knows nothing about the country. The North and South branches are here about the same width, 200 feet. Our camp is between the two.

Camp No. 12, Feb. 3rd, 1875.

Dear Edward, —

We followed Quaw’s instructions, and took the North Branch. On the 31st we had a blinding snowstorm, which filled the track completely and didn't surprise us by doing so. The weather has been pretty cold and the travelling bad now. Took an observation at noon on 1st and made Lat. 54 degees 26’ North. On that day Sam’s shoulders were so much galled that the beast couldn't work and was turned out to run; on the 2nd we came to the conclusion that this sort of work will kill the clogs completely, so Jarvis started off with one train and throe men, while Alec, Johnny and I spent the day waiting for a track to be made. In this country a track made in the coldest weather will with one night’s frost harden so that it will boar dogs and loaded sleds easily; hence the two parties. I enjoyed the rest very much and did some mending on trowsers and shirts, duplicates of which I have none. This morning I had the camp up long before day and we had to wait for light to show us the dogs. We made good time over a capital track, but it wasn't much use, 9 miles up we found Jarvis making a portage around  "falls as high as a tree," so this afternoon we all were at that and got through about 5. The portage is 3 miles long and after passing the falls we have some very bad canon to go through. The river is open for the most part, and we have only a narrow ledge of ice and snow to make a track on. On the right rises perpendicular rook 400 or 500 feet high, on our left is the river roaring and rushing 20 feet below. This ledge was formed when the water was high and when the river subsided it was left. High water mark is here some 60 feet above our heads and it must be a grand looking place at high water.

To-night we are all in camp here, where we returned from portage building.

We begin to believe that Quaw is not a liar, sure this fall is as  "high as a tree" but his days must have been short.

Yours, C. F. H.

Jarvis Pass - Part 7 - The High Price of Salmon

SALMON Cache, Bear River,

21st January, 1875.

My Dear Edward,—

I left camp No. 7 yesterday at 11 and with the light trains over very bad snow made 22 miles to last night’s camp. I would have gone further than that but Quaw, who broke track, was used up, so I stopped. This morning we were at the portage early and started across it, Quaw said it was good for dogs. Quaw is a liar, and I believe he never saw the portage before, at any rate he couldn’t find it half the time. However, after much climbing, hauling the dogs up and letting them down perpendicular places by ropes (the truth) we got to Bear River at 4 p. m. Distance across portage about 3 miles, which we did in 7 hours hard travelling, I am mad to-night and have been giving Quaw a piece of my mind. After getting to Bear River, we came up 5 miles and found the cache in a good state of preservation.   Quaw has quite a house here and in it we now sit. Brush on the floor, a good fire and a dry roof overhead, all make a very good picture, which I’d like to sketch.

The salmon caches are outside in some large pine trees, where the bears and wolverine cannot get.

HANINGTON CACHE, 26th January, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

On the 22nd  entered into a discussion with Quaw as to the benefit to be derived from a cheap sale of salmon. Among other things I told him he would certainly have a fair chance of going to Heaven when ho died, all of which being spoken in the chaste language of the Chinook, he took into his heart. The end of it was, that after breakfast he handed over 650 salmon at 10 cents each, and he also helped to pack them on the two dog sleds. The noble red man is a strange individual. Last summer when the salmon were running up the river, and we wanted some, fresh, Quaw wanted us to pay $1.50 each for them, now after having cured and dried them he sells ten for one dollar. Quaw says he has been up the pass we are going to explore and that it is good, but he won't go as guide at any price I tried him again when at his cache, but no go; he says "In three days journey you will got to a fork of the N. Fork, take the left. In two days more you will strike a fall as high as a tree, which you will have to portage around. In 5 days more you will see meadows and a very small stream running through. After that you will travel 3 days when you will find water running east, and you will see the sun rise out of the prairie."  This is a very good prospect for us, if his word can only be depended upon, but I’d rather see the old chap go up as guide than hear all his ways and means of getting through the pass.

The great point is, how long are Quaw’s "Suns" or days, but that we'll find out in time. Well, as I said before. I got the salmon loaded on the sleds and having given Quaw an order on the H. B. Co. for his money (which they will probably pay in goods at 500 per cent profit) I said good bye, wishing him success in his trappings, &c., and left. Te Jon takes one train and I my own and we came around by Bear River, the portage being as I said before; the travelling on Bear River was very bad and I soon had to make Te Jon drive both trains while I broke track. We got only live miles down river and camped, the dogs being completely played out. I broke track a few miles ahead after we got comfortable for the night. The next day was a little better and we made 8 miles, getting two miles below the mouth of Bear River, but I had to leave one sled at Bear River, and putting 8 dogs on the other drove to camp. Then while I made ready for the night, Te Jon went back and brought up last sled. In the evening I broke track ahead. The next day we found the river frightful, the water having overflowed on account of the heavy snow. As you can imagine, the sleds stuck fast in the slush, and we have to get poles, turn them (the sleds) over and scrape off the bottoms, then we go on a few more yards, when we repeat. It was fearful both on men and dogs, and I was delighted when I saw the N. Fork on which hoped to see some remains of the track we made on the way down; we got there about

3 o’clock on the 25th, with one sled and 8 dogs hauling, so I set Te Jon at the camp and went back for the remaining sled; 8 dogs make a fine train, I can tell you, but they have had such a hard time of it that their spirits are about broken. It was late when I got that sled to camp and it didn’t take much cradling to send me to sleep. This morning I made up my mind to leave one sled here, and with the other and all the dogs, go to my cache before night. This I did and we left camp early.  It snowed hard all day but we got here at 4 o'clock, altho' we had some overflowed ice to work with.

I forgot to say that three miles from here we found a fresh track and after that we came in in fine style. I found Jarvis and the others here, having returned today from the trip up river. They report a good track ahead now, but to night will till it up I think. A heavy snow storm. So far we have never seen a track remain open more than one day, but this may be an exception to the rule.

I have had a square feed to-night. My stock of grub having given out some time ago, and my taste for salmon not being developed yet, I have been hungry.

Jarvis is sorry that Quaw didn’t come back as guide, but as usual we agree in saying that so far " the country’s quite Safe. "

But I'll turn in—good night.

C. F. H.

Jarvis Pass - Part 6 - Colder than Hell -53

Note: Bear River is the Bowron River, and the North Fork in this case, is the McGregor River 

Camp No. 4, Fraser River,

17th  Jan'y., 1875.

My Dear Edward,—

We got away from Fort George on the 14^th,  Jan'y  about 2 p. m. and camped 7 miles up River.  Bovil looked very sad as he won't see any white man ‘till next spring. We took with us "Quaw," an Indian who has fish on Bear River (see plan) and " Te Jon " an Indian boy. It was very cold—53° and my nose as usual got fits. We camped in the old style with boughs at our backs and under us and a good fire in front. Each man has two pairs of blankets and all his clothes on his back. This avoids loading the dogs too heavily and at any rate one needs them at night. The first night I can’t say I slept very peacefully,—53° don't allow that, but I slept a little and that's something. We were up early next day and had breakfast at once, no time being lost in washing or dressing. I found my leader (" Marquis ") with both fore feet frozen hard that morning, so I had to let him run loose and try three dogs. We killed a grouse today,  " Quaw " having a gun with him. I forgot to say that we have a rifle and cartridges, but we left the gun in Quesnelle, too heavy to pack. This morning poor old Marquis' feet wore in a dread­ful state, having frozen and thawed several times, so he had to be shot and it was done accordingly.  Jarvis did the deed and we left the good old brute at our last night's camp more comfortable than he has been since he froze his feet. We had some hard travelling today through the Giscome Rapids where open water kept us off the river. All the dogs are lame, very lame. Their feet get wet and the snow sticks to them, then of course the poor brutes pull the lumps off with their teeth and in the hurry they bite their toes fearfully, but we can't help that and they must go on sore or not. I can't imagine a quicker way to harden a man’s heart than to put him driving dogs.

This is Sunday in civilization, the only thing we have to remind us of the fact is the date in our diaries and I suppose we won't have one till we got to the east side of the mountains.  Our camp to night is 52 miles from Fort George and about 12 miles below mouth of North Fork. Still very cold indeed.

Hanington's Cache,

Camp No. 7, Jan’y., 20th, '75.

My Dear Edward,—

Here we are at last, 82 miles from Fort George, in 7 days. We came along pretty well, though as I said before the dogs were very lame indeed and the travel­ling bad in many places. We saw a ptarmigan on the 18th, the only one I over came across, a very pretty white bird, smaller than our partridge, and very fond of snow-clad mountains, where it stays in summer. We have four feet of snow, and find it hard work to shovel out room for camp, but so far we have done it always, it has been very cold and my poor nose has caught it often.  A common wind in  summer would freeze it anyhow I believe.

These dogs of ours are rather used up, bat I have shod most of my throe with doer skin shoes and they are getting over their lameness. The Chief (Jarvis) and Quaw now generally break track ahead of the trains ; about noon they are sometimes half a mile ahead, when they stop to make a fire for lunch. N. B. At the first stroke of the axe, dogs which a moment before could scarcely crawl, prick up their ears and take the load along as if it were nothing. It's no use to yell, “ulwa", they won't stop till they get to the fire.  I think it would be a good idea to keep a man ahead to chop the dogs along, instead of having one behind for the same purpose.

We got hero at 9 a.m., and I leave in an hour for Salmon Cache, taking Quaw and Te Jon with me, also two trains empty to bring up a fish supply.

While we are away, Jarvis, Alec and Johnny are going ahead to break track and we hope to hear of the Stewart's Lake trains before we meet here on my return. There is a good deal of fresh snow on the ground and the river in consequence is overflowed. This as you can understand makes it lively for the dogs, and gives us exercise in hauling dogs as well as in driving them.  But I'll close this for the- present as I must leave for Bear River.

C. F. H.

Jarvis Pass - Part 5 - Jack the 'Cur ' and Bovil's Fight!

Fort George, January 7, 1875.

My Dear Edward,—

After 'Xmas we began to look for Alec every day and finally to fear that he had fallen into the river which he was ordered to follow on his return. Our time was spent in taking long walks up and down the river and in cutting ft. trail around some open water a few miles above; the season is getting on and it begins to look as if we wouldn't get off before spring. Still we flatter ourselves that the “country is quite safe." To-day we started an Indian down the river to look up Alec, giving him orders to bring him dead or alive, so I hope we will hear something in a few days more. We are O. K., the dog’s ditto. Bovil has a queer specimen of a cur which he fondly imagines is well bred. His dog's name is Jack; he doesn't know it himself, but Bovil says so. His obedience is really wonderful, when Bovil says " come here Jack," he starts at once to get under the bed, and then his master says, " that's right go and lie down under the bed, you beast," or else he gets the beast in one hand and a dog whip In the other, and makes music for the million. We are having some snowshoes and toboggans (dog sleds) made while we wait; ours are pretty well used up in the Quesnelle trip.

Fort George, January 13th, 1875.

My Dear Edward,—

On the 8th of this month, the day after we started the Indian to look for Alec he returned having met the youth down the river a day's travel. Alec had a hard trip, having brought the dogs, sleds and loads up the river as far as 1^st Canon in a canoe. He then started up the river with the train, but the ice was very bad and he finally had to leave his load, the dogs being played out for want of grub. You see he had started from Quesnelle with six days' grub expecting to make quick time on the river. At Blackwater, he got an Indian to help him and together the three packed a good part of the load up, one important part was a mail containing letters from home. The 8th was very cold, —47°, but as I had given you a register already, I won't repeat all the thermometer readings in my letters. Alec and Johnny returned with fresh dogs the next day after arriving and brought up the sled, &c, on the l2th; between the 9th and 12th we had sent off a H. B. Co.'s servant to buy salmon for us, and on the 13th he arrived bringing with him a messenger from Ogden saying that the trains would be on hand in a few days. So we are now all ready to start on the Smoky River Exploration, and will leave tomorrow, I think. Before I give you an idea of how our loads, &c., are made up, I must tell you of a fight we had in the house this afternoon. We were sitting smoking quietly when the door opened and in walked an Indian, he made straight for Bovil, and before you could say " Jack," he hit at him with a hardwood club made for the purpose; fortunately Bovil caught part of the blow with his arm or it would have been the last of him, he then jumped up and grabbed the Indian and around the room they waltzed, each trying to get a good blow; at last I saw the Indian feel for his knife, so I took a hand by getting my dog whip and putting the handle into Bovil's hand. The handle is loaded you know, for the purpose of knocking down a refractory dog. Well, as soon as Bovil felt his weapon, he jumped back, broke away from the noble red, and gave it to him good. After that, we had no trouble in dragging him to the door, where he remained some time after recovering, with the blood running down his face and his knife in his hand, ready to let daylight into our host. There was great excitement among the Indians, who gathered outside in crowds. Finally the savage was coaxed off and I was as glad as anyone to see him go, tho' I had a good six-shooter and wasn't much afraid. It seems that an Indian boy had told stories, lies, about Bovil and some squaw, for which Bovil kicked him well, hence the row, in which the father sought to revenge the kicking of his son.

All's well that ends well, but Bovil had better be careful with these brutes.

Here I will give you an idea of what we have to consider in making up our load:

First, grub per man per day, 4 lbs. 4 men ...............................  16 lbs.

                             “     “   dog     “         2 lbs. 8 dogs …………………….. 16 lbs.

32 lbs.

Blankets, instruments, kitchen, &c., &c., for 4 men.................. 150 lbs.

2 dog trains will carry, No. 1..................................................... 250 lbs.

No. 2................................................. 350 lbs.

                                                            600

Subtract.................................................................... 150

32/ 450 /-14 days.

130

So we leave to-morrow morning with only 14 days' grub for all, but at " Hanington's cache" there is bacon and flour and at Bear River we will get some salmon. So when the Stewart Lake trains arrive we will be able to go on again with full loads. The C.P.R. rations amount to 4 lbs. 5 oz. per day,  and it is all eaten, the air in these moun­tains giving one a great appetite. I will give you the ration list on a separate sheet.

I have been puzzling over our supplies and from what I can make out we will have some small rations before we got through, but our instruments must go or else we might as well stay. The weights I have given for our dead weight (articles not grub) are under the real weight I am sure.

But Good Night, Yours, C.F.H.