Jarvis Pass - Part 18 - Tete Jaune Cache to Ft. George

Here's the Last Part of Hanington's letters to his brother.  The entire Journal will be uploaded to the Valley Museum Website in the original typeset text with maps.

Tete Jaune Cache,  Rocky Mountains, May 4th, 1876.

My Dear Edward, —

I left Fort Garry in June last, after having spent three weeks very pleasantly there. Johnny thought Winnipeg a fine place; it was his first appearance in a town. He had some money when he arrived, and the first time he appeared after, he was dressed in black broadcloth, swell hat and patent leather boots. His board was paid all the time till a chance should occur of sending him homo to British Columbia. The last time I saw him he was sitting by the side of a dry goods store with one arm around the neck of a very good-looking squaw, who evidently thought him no end of a swell. Late last fall he came over here, having been forwarded by express. He had learned to talk English, and when I said, " Iketa mika tumtum kopa okook cula inate la monte? " *
He replied, "Damn hard. ”  
He had a good summer of it; lived with the object of his affections (though she did not speak his language nor he hers), and was loud in the praises of Winnipeg. I inquired about the health of his wife, and he informed me that she cried a good deal when he came away; also that should nothing occur to prevent he would be a father shortly. So I gave him some clothes, &c., and he started off to his home in the lower Fraser. Alec was hired as a mail carrier between Garry and Edmonton till the autumn, when he was sent to Henry House, 64 miles from here, to look after the supplies there in depot. He came over to see me this winter, and was here on the anniversary of the day on which we reached Lake St. Ann’s. We did our best to celebrate it in rum and water, a thing we weren’t able to do last year. I had him in our mess, and enjoyed his visit very much, living over past scenes more pleasantly than was possible at the time they were enacted. He went back to his post, and will go to Fort Garry early in the spring. The chief (Jarvis) went to St. Paul, and was sent for from Ottawa, where he was wanted to take a party to British Columbia. Being as fond of this country as I am, and being able to afford himself a  rest, he refused and left the C. P. R. for a season. After making a visit to P. E. Island and other parts of the Dominion, he returned to Fort Garry and went into the lumber business, where he is now making a good deal of money. I hear from him often. He said once that the mention of Smoky River made him shudder, and I dare say it would. I came out here last summer, and we commenced locating the line from the summit of Yellow Head Pass down the Fraser River to meet another party commencing at Fort George. In November we went into quarters here, and have spent a most miserable winter, the last I will ever spend in this way. We will be at work long before you get this, pushing steadily towards Fort George and civilisation after. The sketch I send of our trip is, I think, full of errors, though not any serious ones. I have written it very hurriedly at different times, with all the din and noise of my friends in arms sounding in my ears.

I know you will make every allowance for my mistakes, which I cannot correct as I've no time to read the whole again.

I know it is written in a rambling desultory sort of fashion, but you’ll believe me when I say that I did the best I can under the circumstances. And now I'll say good-bye. I remain,

Your loving brother,

CHAS. F. HANINGTON.

* "What do you think of the trip across the mountains? "



Thermometrical Readings; Minimum Temperature, from 1st January to 6th, April, 1875.
-
January. February. March. April.
Date. Temperature Date. Temperature. Date. Temperature. Date. Temperature
               o o o o
1 -32 1 -23 1          - 6 1 23
2 -26 2 -29 2 12 2 24
3 -40 3 -10 3 -11 3 4
4 -10 4        7 4          - 8 4 - 4
5              -33 5 - 8 5 -15 5 6
6             -38 6 2                 6 - 5 6 8
7 -36 7        4 7 22
8             -47 8        8 8 16
9             -25 9       -24              9 5
10           -45 10 -22 10 26
11           -31         11 8 11 27
12          -40 12 12 12 15
13          -50 13         2              13 -2
14 -53 14 3 14 -32
15 -48 15 25 15 -30
16 -36          16 15 16 -23
17          -41          17       27 17 -20
18 -45 18 33 18          - 8
19 -45 19 28 19 -12
20          -31 20 25 20 9
21           3 21      29 21 6
22           7 22 25 22  - 3
23        -10 23 11 23 -12
24           8 24 - 2 24 - 9
25         14 25      -15 25 4
26 -2 26 - 2 26  - 6
27  -23 27      -10 27 5
28        -29 28 8 28 - 4
29        -10 29 15
30         14 30         5
31 - 2 31         9

Jarvis Pass - Part 17 - 2,188,900 Paces

This letter doesn't have a date or whom to; I imagine it's a summary report to "Whom it may Concern;" or to Jarvis in 1876.


The country between Quesnelle and Lake St. Ann’s is heavily wooded for the most part. West of the mountains it is much broken and rugged. The streams there are rapid and their banks rocky.

After crossing the mountains things appear in a more settled form, and on a smaller scale, the hills particularly. On the Smoky River there is some fine sandstone, about all we saw on the trip. We had heard of a great canon on the Athabasca but when we reached it we found the rocky sides to be about 20 feet high and fiat on the top. We were disappointed. On the Pembina River there are some coal beds which have been burning for many years. We could smell the smoke about a mile off, and it put us in mind of a city. At one place where the smoke comes out of the side of a perpendicular rock it is particularly striking. The surface of the ground is very hot in many places, hot enough to boil the kettle; and by the way I might mention here that the proper name for "Smoky River" is “Smoking” River, so given from some burning coal beds about 50 miles below where we left it.

The wood about St. Ann’s is small and mostly cotton wood. From that to east it exists only in patches and is very small. East of Edmonton a man knowing the country can generally find enough wood to make a fire, but there are places where wood has to be carried in the carts, such as the Salt Plain, Pheasant Plain, and some others. I am speaking of the trail which we followed from Edmonton. There is a trail south of the Saskatchewan. where the kettle most of the time has to be boiled by the use of buffalo chips. One reason why we did not take it was the season not being far enough advanced and fires being necessary there.

The map, 25 miles to an inch, is a tracing I compiled from my poor data. It will do to give you an idea of the locality we are now in as well as that followed last winter ('75). It is not correct as regards distance. The trail I have dotted in red, as well as the other part of our journey. The line of the C. P. R. I laid down as near as I could from information gathered in letters, &c. " The plan of our Smoky River exploration " is as correct as can be, having been plotted from the original notes. The camps are marked in red and the elevations in blue.

You will see that I haven’t wasted much time on them, but I trust they are plain and will serve their purpose.

I send the " Smoky River plan " in toto, but a very small strip of the other one. 'Cause, not very much time to spare just now.

Hoping you'll excuse all the deficiencies which can’t be helped,

I remain,

Yours sincerely,

C. F. HANINGTON.


DISTANCE TRAVELLED ON SMOKY RIVER EXPLORATION.
                                                                                        Miles.

From Quesnelle Mouth to Fort George.............................. 125

"  Fort George to mouth of North Fork.......................... 64

"  North Fork to Hanington's Cache............................... 18

"  Hanington’s Cache to Salmon Cache (Bear River),
         going by Portage and returning via Bear and
         Fraser Rivers............................................................. 73 1/2

" Hanington's Cache to the Forks.................................. 18

" The Forks to head of North Branch............................ 63

" Return to the Forks.................................................... 63

" Forks to turn into Pass............................................... 48 1/2

"      Turn into Pass to Summit of Mountains........................ 40 3/4

"      Summit to Cache on Smoky River............................... 86

"      Cache on Smoky River to Next River........................... 9 1/4

" Next river to Fiddle River Depot...............................110

" Fiddle River Depot to Lake St. Ann's....................... 217

" Lake St. Ann’s to Edmonton...................................... 60

Miles............................................................................... 996

                                                                                       Miles.

Distances measured by Pacing between Quesnelle Mouth and
Edmonton on Exploration................................................ 826

Number of paces counted, taking inside figures .............2,188,900

DISTANCES FROM EDMONTON EAST.

                                                                                           Miles.

From Edmonton to Fort Victoria............................................80

"  Victoria to Fort Pitt.................................................... 113

"  Pitt to Fort Carlton..................................................... 167

"        Carlton to Fort Ellice.................................................. 307

"   Ellice to Fort Garry.................................................... 220

Total................................................................................... 887


Total distance travelled.....................................................1, 883
No. of camps between Quesnelle Mouth and Fort Garry....... 106


RATION LIST, CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY SURVEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA.

For one man, per day and per month:-

                                                              Per day.         Per month.

Bacon and hams.................................... 1 1/2 lb.   45 lbs.

Flour.................................................... 1 1/4 "           37 1/2 "

Beans and  pease................................. 12 1/2 ozs.   25 "

Oatmeal.................................................1 1/2 "   2 "

Dried apples and plums.......................... 4 "   5 "

Tea...................................................... 1 1/4  "   2 "

Coffee.................................................. 1 1/2 "           3 "

Sugar................................................. 2 1/2  "        4 1/2  "

Rice.................................................... 2 "        4 "

Molasses......................... ............................................1 gall.

Yeast powder........................................ 3 tins to 50 lbs. of flour.

Salt....................................................................................1/2  "

Mustard..............................................................................1/8  "

Pepper................................................................................1/3  "

Pickles................................................Plenty.

Soap................................................... do       4     "

Candles.............................................. do in officers’ mess.

Vinegar.............................................. do

Lime juice........................................... do

Matches.............................................. do

Note.- When fresh beef is used instead of bacon, 60 lbs. must be allowed per month.

These rations are used regularly in B. C. The sugar particularly is very often short.

C. F.  HANINGTON.

Jarvis Pass - Part 16 - Feeling Like A Bird

Fort Garry, Manitoba,

22nd May, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

We were two days from St. Ann’s to Edmonton; spent five days there; had a good deal of vomiting and diarrhoea, which lasted nearly to Fort Pitt. We were four days to Victoria, and rested there two days. Nine days more to Pitt where we stayed one day. Nine days from Pitt to Carlton where we rested five days. We left Carlton on the 8th May, and were at Ellice on the 15th; stayed there only half a day and reached Portage la Prairie on the morning of the 20th. Then Jarvis and I took the stage and got here yesterday. We left the Stewart Lake Indians at Edmonton to return in the spring, Johnny, Alec, and a guide (Norris) a trader, came through with us. I cannot here give you a description of our day’s journey, of securing rides on horseback, riding on carts, camp, and all the rest, but it was jolly, fine Weather and plenty of grub. I now weigh 163 pounds, more than I ever weighed, and I feel like a bird, but hungry yet. We left Edmonton with horse sleds (toboggan), at Victoria we packed our horses and left sleds. At Pitt we left pack saddles, got some fresh horses and carts and came to Carlton. At Carlton more fresh horses, at Ellice more fresh horses and a waggon which we engaged to the Portage. From St. Ann’s to Fort Garry we were just fifty-one days, thirty-seven of which were spent in travelling, and the others in loafing.

Some time I may give you an account of the trip from Edmonton (nearly 900 miles) of the game on the prairie and the prairies themselves. But now I’ll conclude by thanking the officers of the Hudson Bay Company for their generosity and good nature. Every one of them did his best to make us comfortable, took us to his own house, though we were perfect strangers to all of them west of Ellice. There I found two old friends of mine, who had partaken of our hospitality when we kept house it Fort Garry, two years ago.

This has been a hard trip from first to last. One that I will never forget, and never repeat, I hope. I am now in the office here, waiting for orders to go somewhere to work, and making  the plan, a tracing of which I send you.

My eye has just caught this sentence in Jarvis’ report, which I have been reading (his report to the Chief Engineer, Mr. Fleming ): " I cannot refrain from mentioning In terms of the highest praise, my assistant, Mr. Hanington, to whose pluck and endurance the success of the exploration is so largely due. ”

I put this in because I am proud of it, and I will add that that one sentence from Jarvis is pay enough for all I did through the winter. Jarvis has gone to St. Paul to see a friend, so I am alone here, except that I have any amount of friends who are kind as ever.

And now good bye.

Your loving brother,

CHAS.

Jarvis Pass - Part 15 - Hard Work and Deuced Small Grub

CAMP   No.  51.
McLEOD'S  RIVER, 24th  March, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

We left the Depot very early, in a gale of wind which blow down the lake, our dogs, Cabree of my train, Captain of Alec’s and Musqua from Stewart’s Lake didn't offer to follow us as they preferred grub to starvation I suppose; we went down the Lake in a hurry, rather too fast for our own comfort sometimes, and then followed the Athabasca; having done 14 miles when we camped, had a little dried meat and a little bread for supper, turned in tired enough. Next day we followed the river 14 miles and then left it to take trail across to McLeod River camp 1 mile on trail.  Found so walking warm that day and the rations very small for such hard work. On the 20th the walking was very bad and we only did 8 1/2 miles passing a lake in P. M.  On Sunday the 2lst we did 4 miles to the McLeod and 8 down it on a trail made by one of the C. P. R. parties two years before. Very heavy travelling but the trail is better than the river which was overflowed.

22nd. Travelled 15 miles, 5 to portage across bend of river and 10 to camp. Nothing eventful my diary says, sick of this work, “ hard work and deuced small grub.” On the 23rd we did 16 1/2 miles, 1 to end of portage and 15 more down the river by trail, met Adam, a man from Edmonton, en route to Jasper House. He gave us some tea but his grub was about gone as he had been detained by the heavy travelling.

We had a cup of strong tea immediately, and it made us drunk, think of it, drunk on tea. He gave us some sugar which we ate up at once, like Indians exactly, and then we pushed on. On the 24th we made good time on Adam’s track and did 22 1/4 miles, though a little fresh snow fell in the evening, that is to-night. We start early and stop to lest every hour being not so strong as we once were. At night we stop, Jarvis and I clear up a place for camp, Alec and Johnny get brush and the others cut wood, as soon as camp is made Johnny cooks supper (so called) but long before that I am asleep. I am waked to cut my share, which is measured (by) the chief carefully and is hardly perceptible sometimes. Then I light my pipe and am asleep before I get a dozen pulls, so you will believe me when I say that I am about used up. Tobacco is the main stay; I chew it all day and smoke in the evening and it is a great improvement on nothing. Our tea now is everything for us, though that first very strong cup made a hole in the supply. However, we boil it over and over very carefully, Jarvis carrying the sack and putting in a fresh grain every time. But we know where we are perfectly and we would have no trouble in getting through were we not so much raised up when we left the Depot.

Camp No. 54, 27th March, 1875.

My Dear Brother, —

On the 25th we did 25 miles on the river, our grub getting very short, and the tea nearly gone. I had a sort of fainting fit that day so Jarvis went on a little farther made camp, leaving Alec to see me through; all right in evening, plenty of tobacco. On the 26th we followed the river 4 miles and then struck off easterly doing 9 more; had two hares for supper and the last of the bread. The men eat the insides without cleaning them, after they had taken their share of the meat.

Today it has been very warm and hard snow shoeing, we did 11 miles and struck a creek running east. Killed four hares to-day and had a first rate supper; though it night have been better.

I would give anything to-night for a good square meal of bacon, beans and bread, to say nothing of such a one as I often dream of. Still it is well I have something. Good night.

Yours hungrily,

C. F. H.


Camp 57, Lake St. Ann’s,

31st March, 1875.

My Dear Brother, —

On the 28th we did 18 miles and got nothing. My diary says, very hungry and it says truth. We crossed Dirt Lake or Chip Lake, and camped on the creek, snowing all night. On the 29th we did 23 miles, 15 1/2 to Pembina River, down it to Portage and 4 to camp beside a lake. We lived on tobacco and water, and though very weak made very good time with frequent rests. On the 30th, that is yesterday, it was warm and hard walking. Alec lay down several times, but toward evening we met an Indian who acted as guide, so we strained every nerve, C. F. H. in front, Jarvis next, then Alec and lastly the Indians; and we got to this Post at 7 P. M. in spite of all the hunger, weakness and misery. I could have gone a good deal farther that day, with that Indian in front, but when he stopped of course I was played out at once.

Mr. McGillvray, God bless him, set out a supper of white fish, potato as, milk, bread, sugar and tea and asked us to go at it. There wasn't a word said for about half an hour, and then we weren't able to speak much. For myself I staggered to a lounge where I suffered from the grub as much as I had from the want of it. This morning we were up at 5 and no one being awake I stole some bread. At 7 we had breakfast, a repetition of last night. After breakfast Alec and I took McGillvray's horse and cutter and went to the village, where is a R. C. Mission, to buy eggs, butter, at one of the half breed’s houses (a little mixed this) they asked as to eat and set out grilled buffalo bones, potatoes, tea, &c., and we had a capital feed, at another they gave us bread and milk which we did justice to. Then with a lot of eggs and cream (no butter)  we returned to the home and spent the time till noon eating cream and sugar with our bread. At noon another fill, ate all the afternoon And evening and are now as hungry as ever though suffering from the effects of gluttony. This is the end of our great exploration so far as hunger and great danger are concerned. When I think of it, I wonder how we ever got through, for without any guide and knowledge of the country we could hardly expect it. To use Jarvis’ words, “ It is altogether too large a country for 6 men. ”  My weight hero is 125 1/4 lbs. but I'll make up for it in a short time; I have necessarily written this sketch of the trip more in reference to myself than my chief. So here I want to say that the credit of the success of the exploration is due to E. W. Jarvis, whose judgment, energy and pluck brought us through. I only seconded him and did my best. But a divine Providence watched over us all through and we owe him our most heartfelt thanks.

Tomorrow we start for Edmonton, in two sleds with horses, and any amount of grub on board.

I'll write you from Fort Garry if not before.

I remain,

Your loving brother,

CHAS.

Jarvis Pass - Part 14- Staring Death in the Face Over a Bowl of Dog Soup

Camp No. 43, 15 March, 1875.         Where?

My Dear Edward, —

On the 12th we had snow all day, and very bad snow-shoeing. River 100 ft. wide and running north like the others, we commenced to think that times were hard when we began to eat dog to keep our strength up. Dog too, which had been starved and worked nearly to death. I don’t believe dog soup is good, but it goes very well. On the 13th we left the river and struck out on the old course about S. E. The Indians from Stewart’s Lake went on with their wail about never seeing their friends again. They gave up all hope, and I scarcely wonder at it; still they needn't howl so about such a small thing. Others have friends and just as strong feelings for them, and they may think a good deal, but they don’t cry. Yesterday the 14th it snowed all day and we weren't able to see anything. In the afternoon after crossing a river, we came upon a pile of horse dung. It was the prettiest I ever saw and I’d like a picture of that very pile; we examined it and cheered lustily thinking that we must be near somewhere. Buster, my favourite dog, died yesterday. To-day the snow stopped and we saw about 20 miles away a high rock which looked like a photograph we once saw of Roche a Miette at Jasper House. So we turned toward it at once. To-night we are in camp on a ridge or summit. Before us is a valley, a small insignificant one, which in my opinion contains another creek. Beyond it are some hills and further in the distance a ridge of mountains. So the thing has come down to this: —If the Athabasca be not in that valley it is beyond those mountains. In this case as Jarvis says to me, we neither have enough grub or enough strength to carry us across. So our end will be near here.

You must imagine our camp then to-night. Opposite sit the Indians, Johnny as usual silent and impassive, the other two with their heads in their hands sobbing out their grief as usual too. On my right is my worthy chief Jarvis, very thin, very white, and very much subdued. He is thinking of a good many things I suppose like the rest of us. On my left is Alec chewing tobacco and looking about used up. He had seen “ Roche a Miette” once from the east side, but isn't sure whether this is it or not, so he is blue. In the centre I sit, my looks I can't describe and my feeling scarcely. I don't believe the Athabasca is in that valley. I do believe that we have not many more days to live. I have been thinking of  “the dearest spot on earth to me,” of our Mother and Father, of all my brothers and sisters and friends. Of the happy days at home, of all the good deeds I have left undone and all the bad ones committed. I wonder if ever our bones will be discovered, when and by whom, if our friends will mourn long for us, or do as is often done, forget us as soon as possible. In short I have been looking death in the face, and had come to the conclusion that C. F. H. has been a hard case, and would like to live a while longer to make up for it.

But I am glad since we started that we didn't go back, though this has been a very tough trip and this evening is the toughest part of it.

But I must say good-night.

C. F. H.

                                   This Goya etching plays on the hope that, after death, we shall finally learn the truth. 

Camp No. 44, Fiddle River Depot, March 17th, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

The day after that terrible evening of doubt and uncertainty, we went only 6 miles when we struck Lac Brule. You can imagine our feelings without my trying to describe them. Then 8 miles up the lake to the Depot where we found a family of Indians who gave us a lot of boiled rabbits when they found we were hungry. We went for that rabbit and then interviewed the natives. There is no one at Jasper House. This is a disappointment as we hoped to get dog trains and men there to take us east. But the Indians say they can give us some dried deer meat and a piece of mountain sheep. We are all looking very much pulled down; all our dogs are gone but three, and they are all bones and skin. Our one sled is here, and here it will remain. Our distance from Smoky River is 119 miles from summit, 205 from Fort George, we have travelled about 600 miles. The Indians say the track made on Smoky River was by one of their number who was hunting there early in the winter. That the river we followed from summit was Smoky River and also the 2nd one another branch of the same.

We are getting well used here. Rabbit straight three times a day. To-night we have our supplies in. Some dried meat and mutton and we start to-morrow. By the map Lake St. Ann’s is about 200 miles from here by the way we go. The men want to stay here and go back to Stewart’s Lake in the Spring. Upon my word I’d like to stay, too; I dread this part of the trip more than anything, although now we have the satisfaction of  “ knowing where we are.’’ Alec has been over this part of the trip, having come from Red River a couple of years ago. “ Roche Miette’’ is here all right and I won’t mistake it again, should I over have the honour of seeing it.

"Roche Miette Winter" by Barb Brooks - 1941-2009

The great peculiarity about it is its west side.- It is as perpendicular as the side of a house and as difficult to climb. A man by the name of “ Miette ” got up the east side and on to it, and it has borne his name since. Rightly enough too.

Well now I’ll conclude, very thankful I am that we are thus far on our journey and have been kept through such trial and danger.

Yours,

CHAS. F. HANINGTON.

Jarvis Pass - Part 13 - Looming Starvation in Paradise

54 Degrees 23' N. near Camp 33, 72 miles North of McBride

86 Miles from Summit, Camp 33, Smoky River, March 5th, 1875.

Dear Edward, —

The 2nd was very unpleasant, a heavy snow storm, river overflowed and deep snow, river turning more to the north and dogs getting awfully used up.

Our camp on the 3rd was at mouth of small stream from south and we had not a very comfortable evening. Another dog died that day, died of starvation, and worse still the river turned more to the north, and that as I said before means Smoky River.

Yesterday we camped 1 mile above a small fork from south, and after plotting up our work concluded that this river is Smoky River beyond a doubt. We saw an old track of a snow-shoe, but the maker may be hundreds of miles away by this time.

I got very bad with mal de raquette yesterday and cannot recommend it as a travelling companion to any one who has to travel every day and all day.

To day we have been in camp all day making packs and a cache in which we will leave our heavy stuff. By observation at noon we find we are in latitude 54 degrees 23' N. We will strike across country from here steering by the compass with our dogs following us. Our packs won’t be heavy, (very); mine is about 33 lbs., but with mal de raquette it will be heavier a good deal. We are going to take one sled, but it will be light, the others remain here “ to be called for ” I hope, but not by us. We will leave no grub of course, but our sextant, stationery, books, &c &c., with extra clothing remain here; the last clause doesn't trouble me as I put on my trowsors, drawers and shirts at Quesnelle and won’t take them off till we reach Edmonton.

By the way, I forgot to mention that at Camp 15, and also at the Summit, we washed our faces and hands. It’s a fact! The first time at Camp 15, and then again at the “ Summit. ” I don’t know the reason for the first wash, unless it was disgust at having to turn back. The last was a wish to leave all the British Columbia dust behind us. To proceed. I may mention that the men from Stewart’s Lake are getting longer faces every day, and they evidently don’t think much of this trip, either past or future. Alec is all right and Johnny as good-natured as ever. His constant sentence is, “ Cultus kopajnika. Cultus kopa mika ”—“ What’s bad for me is bad for you ”

And now I’ll stop for to-night.

Yours,

C. F. H.

Camp No. 34, 6th March, 1875.

To-day we start'd early with our packs on our backs, on small rations. Climbed all day, and were glad enough to stop to night, having done seven miles. We are on a high piece of ground to-night, and before us lies a large valley, so we will have down-hill work to-morrow. My pack to-night weighed 300 lbs. at least, and my legs are as sore as Jarvis’.

Yours,

C. F. H.

Camp No. 39, March 11th, 1875.

Don’t exactly know where.

My Dear Edward, —

On the 7th we had it down hill till we reached the valley before mentioned. Down-hill travelling is worse for mal de raquette than up-hill, though I didn't think so when we were climbing. At the bottom we found a large river, which we thought was the Athabasca. We followed it up a short distance, and then turned off on our old course, following up a tributary which seemed to come from that direction. We turned off for this reason. If this be the Athabasca, we will, in a few miles, strike the McLeod, and will then know where we are and be able to make St. Anne's easily. If not, it is useless and worse to follow up an unknown river. So we called it “This River. ” Jarvis and I still kept the lead, though the pain we felt at every step cannot be expressed in words.

As we turned a corner suddenly on the 8th, I in front saw two moose in the river about 150 feet from us. As is usual in such cases, the rifle was in the sled behind, and before we could get it the moose were away and lost. These were the first live things we had seen since we crossed the Summit, and our disappointment was very great when we missed killing one of them, we all stand so much in need of meat.

On the 9th we left the creek, which was as crooked as a corkscrew, and struck across country over valleys, hills and deep snow. Our camp that night was on a creek running north, and probably into the last river we saw. Our meat was nearly finished that night, and our stomachs felt empty.

Yesterday we had as usual very heavy walking across these valleys, In the afternoon when we were on a summit, before us we saw an immense valley, about 2 miles wide. You may imagine our delight: here was the end of our troubles and our want of grub in particular. So with renewed vigour we posted down. When we reached the bottom we found a muskeg with a small creek running through the middle of it, down went our spirits again. To day we came on a creek running about east so we followed it, and found the trail blazed as if by white men. To night everything was jolly as can be though our meat is done and our tea so small it can’t be counted. Alec shot a rabbit to-day, quite a feed for 6 men. River here 60 ft. wide, with grassy banks, etc.

But I must sleep; good night.

C. F. H.

Jarvis Pass - Part 12- Jarvis suffering from mal de raquette

                                                         E.W. Jarvis Christmas 1872

Camp No 26,

25th Feby., 1875.

We left camp early this morning and made good time across the lakes. At the summit we stopped, marked a tree, 'Summit between B. Columbia and the N. W. Territory, ” date and names, then with one leg on each side of the line drawn on the snow, we drunk the last of our brandy and gave three cheers. I repeat them. Hurrah! Then we started down the creek along which the snow-shoeing was very bad. At noon we saw a lot of prairie chickens, but having no gun didn't get any. We did 13 1/4 miles to-day and the creek which was about three inches wide at the start is now about 15 feet. A good fall in it all the way. We haven’t "seen the sun rise out of the grass" yet, but we hope to soon. We are as happy and contented to night as if we had had a good dinner, a thing we have almost forgotten. The camp isn't very blue generally, but there are some puns and jokes going to-night.

But now to sleep.

Yours,

C. F. H.
Camp No. 30,

Smoky River, March 1st, 1875.

My dear Edward, —

On the 26th we pushed along as usual over very bad travelling, the snow was hard enough to bear us on snow-shoes, but the dogs would go clear to the bottom and stick fast, so we had to break the crust down every step, which was as you can imagine very hard work. Early that morning we were stopped by a fall, the finest one we had yet seen. I crawled to the edge on my stomach, the ice being thin and looked over. The river lay 250 feet below and the trees, &c., looked very small at that distance. On each side of the river the rock rose nearly perpendicularly and altogether it was a hard looking place to got around.

After satisfying ourselves with the view we turned to go back when one of the men proposed a drink. To get it he took a small axe which at the first blow (a very light one) went straight through. You may bet we got out of that in a hurry. We went back about a mile and took to the side of the mountain which we followed with much trouble till we got a mile below the falls. To get the sleds down to the river required no trouble; to get them down whole took a good deal, as it was as near perpendicular as could be. Finally we took off the dogs, turned the sleds on their sides and got down in that way; you can imagine it was steep when I tell you that one sled having got stuck half way between some trees, I tried to go up to help the driver and couldn't possibly do it, though I did my best. That night we camped late, having done miles and found only one foot of snow in the woods. This will appear strange to you, but the same peculiarity extends along the eastern slope of the mountains for a belt of about 60 miles wide. Beyond the snow gets deeper again.

On the 27th we passed a 20-foot fall, around which we made a portage without much trouble. Just below this fall we struck good travelling hard crust and we did 14 miles that day, passed a branch coming in from south, which Jarvis explored for some distance up.

On the 28th we had a good deal of open water and had to take to land frequently. Another dog dropped to day. Jarvis had to follow behind slowly as he is suffering from mal de raquette. He doesn't say much about it but when he takes to the broken track with a white face and set lips you may guess he is in pain. I have been doing the track breaking since he fell to the rear, and I begin to feel a little pain in my ankles to-day. To-day we did 13 miles and camped early to mend snow-shoes which are very much used up. We have got over the good snow and are now in bad travelling again. Snow hard enough to bear us but which the dogs broke up. If we were certain what river this is it would be more satisfactory. At present when it turns to the east, we think it falls into the Athabasca and our hearts heat high. Then we come to a turn toward the north and we are sure it is Smoky River, and must lead to Peace River and our spirit go to zero at once.

Passed another branch from south to day.

C. F. H.

Jarvis Pass - Part 11 - Don't Give Up The Ship

"E.W. Jarvis, CE, and Major C.F. Hanington of Ottawa made an adventurous winter journey across the Rockies in 1875. The pass through which they crossed the mountains was named Jarvis Pass by the Geographic Board of Canada and the name Jarvis is also borne by a mountain on the south side of the pass opposite Mount Hanington. The exploration was undertaken to see if this route across the mountains would be a practicable one for the Canadian Pacific Railway. The elevation of the pass, about 5,000 feet, proved too high. The starting point of the journey was Quesnel, which was left on December 9, 1874, and a 1,000-mile journey, mostly on foot, occupying five and a half months, was concluded at Winnipeg on May 21, 1875." (extract from Natural Resources Canada, Ottawa, June 1927)
Source: BC place name cards, or correspondence to/from BC's Chief Geographer or BC Geographical Names Office

Camp No. 20, Near Turn into the Pass,

19th February, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

On the 17th nothing of note occurred; on the 18th we met Alec, who had been to another fork, and didn’t know which one to take, as to him they both looked unpromising. We camped at the Forks, and I went up the South Branch, while the chief and Alec tried the north. We found that the river here takes a turn to the north, and that the South Branch is a short glacial stream, though looking at the place from here, you would think the mountains shut the whole place up. To-day Alec went off again and we spent a very jolly evening, having found what certainly seems to be a pass through the mountains. We are now 47 1/2 miles from the Forks, and have found this branch so far a great improvement on the north.

Camp 22, 21st February, 1875.

On the 20th we had a first-class trail and did seven miles before noon. Camped In Alec’s last camp, and a queer place it is. The valley is here about a mile wide, the river running through meadow and muskeg. Our camp is on an island in the centre, and all around are the mountains, some of them beautiful, if we only had the spirit to enjoy their beauty. To day it snowed all day, and of course the track was full before night, and not to be found. We did 11 miles though, and didn't say much, though we thought a good deal, I fancy. So far we haven’t been able to keep an open track more than one day. We have plotted up our work to this Camp No. 22, and find that in a straight line we are only nine miles from Camp 15, on the North Branch. If we had only known, what a lot of time and distance we could have saved, and our dogs would have escaped some 100 miles of travel, poor brutes; but as we didn't know it, it can’t be helped.

Camp 25, 24th February, 1875.   AT THE SUMMIT.

My Dear Edward, —

On the 22nd we met Alec coming back as he didn't see the use of breaking track only to have it filled up by snowstorms, so we went 7 1/2 miles and camped with him, after that I broke track a few miles ahead.

On the 23rd we came to falls and canon after canon, and had a good deal of trouble in hauling along dogs and sleds too. I saw Jarvis stop once and begin to think over the situation, so I stopped, too, in fear and trembling, for I was afraid he  would give it up. Presently he came along and said: “Frank, do you know what I was thinking of? " I said, “Yes; don’t go back for Gods sake. ” Well he said that if we all came to grief he would be responsible, and it was a bad look out now. But I told him I’d be responsible for myself, Alec didn't care about going back, and as for the Indians if they starved or not it didn't matter. So on we went to my great delight, for I’d sooner be found in the mountains than give up the ship. Though, so far as a railway is concerned, this pass is of no use.

After camping at the foot of a fall, the two of us walked on and climbed a mountain to 5, 500 feet. Here we saw an apparent fall to the east and our hearts beat high, so we returned to camp and said nothing.

To-day we made a portage and started the men getting the loads up the 2 miles, while we went forward to explore. We found the summit, think of it, at last. This branch flows out of a chain of 5 lakes which lie 5, 300 feet above the sea, then you cross a sort of muskeg containing a lake which flows nowhere, then a little more muskeg and a lake out of which trickles a tiny stream running to the east. We went down this stream about a mile to be certain, and then we took a drink of the blessed water, which was the sweetest thing I have drunk for many a day. A splendid view from summit. There are no high mountains in the far distance except one peak (Smoky Peak).It looks like a park inclining gently towards the east, studded with oak, and carpeted with grass (it would be if the snow were not so deep).

Smoky Peak resembles Mount Ida. One rises in striking grandeur to guard the western side of the pass, while the other guards the east. They both present the same aspect, solitary, with their white summits in the clouds, glaciers covering their sides to the line of vegetation, and then the blue and green of the forest covering, they are indeed grand sights and worthy of an artist's brush.

After the discovery of the water flowing east, we returned to camp in high spirits, hurrah, had a drink of Brandy-Hurrah, and had the pleasure of seeing the others as excited as ourselves. It was indeed a merry evening and one I won’t forget in a hurry. The country is quite safe now sure. There are 6 feet of snow at this camp and we have shovelled out camp to the ground. So our view is limited when we camp.

Jarvis Pass - Part 10 - Falls as High as a Tree

The Forks, 13th February, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

The night before we left the camp (No. 15) at head of N. Branch of N. Fork of N. Fraser River, we had a heavy snowstorm, and consequently had no track to return on. This was expected, as so far it has always been the case. I won’t trouble you with a history of each day’s journey over familiar ground, except to say that the portages around the canons gave us as much trouble and hard work as the up trip. We got hero yesterday having done the 63 miles in 4 days. Capital time considering the road we had. It would have been amusing if not so serious, to see the number of times a sled had to be turned up to get the slush off its bottom in each mile. However, we arrived safely and are glad to be here. This morning Jarvis sent Alec, Johnny, and Ah Kho, ahead up S. Branch to make a trail, as ’tis the only way we can work at all. They took a hand sled as the snow is too deep to take dogs without a track. Tsayass and Te Jon were sent to Fort George with seven dogs and one sled. They are to got their provisions at my cache and seem to be delighted at the chance of going away. Before starting they said good bye to their Indian friends and said that was the last they would ever see of them. This was comforting to them to say the least of it. We sent Sam out by them, also Chun and Tyepaw, a Fort George dog, which I drove as long as he could go, and these with Tsayass' train made up the seven. We have been going over our supplies, and by a free use of the Multiplication Table, and some addition thrown in, we find that we still have one month's grub on hand. Just the same as we had two weeks ago, some sense in this kind of grub which gets larger every day. We have invented a scale by which we can weigh our stuff. 25 rifle cartridges make a pound is Alec’s belief, so on that we work, with a bag of cartridges on one end of a stick and some grub on the other, we lay out each day’s grub for each man, and the beauty of the arrangement is, that we can shorten the rations by taking out a few cartridges while it appears as if we were giving good weight. But it is cheating our own stomachs after all, and I would like one square meal occasionally.

Camp (17) 16th February, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

Early on the 14th we left camp, and wont up the South Branch. Imagine our disgust when 3 miles up we found Alec making a portage around a “ fall as high as a tree, ” we camped and the whole party went at it in the afternoon. The next day Alec left early to finish portage and go on ahead with the trail, while we took over half loads, dropped them at the end and came back to camp. This was the worst portage yet, very full of holes and hills and fallen trees, and dogs take advantage of these places, when they get stuck going up hill, and the driver takes the rope ahead to haul on, the brutes turn about and go; then after pulling and working your hardest you got them to the top, away they go down the other side, and no power on earth can stop them till they got to the bottom, whore when you reach it you will probably see sled and dogs piled in a confused heap and well used up, and it takes a good humoured man to get them started again without some swearing and a good deal of whip. I regret to say that I haven't a temper of that kind. The worst place in the trail was where it takes to the river again. Alec made that part of it, and I think he must have let his sled go. My dogs took a run when they got near the top and laughed when I Called “ Ulwa" ! I held on to the rope as long as I could and then go when dogs and sled disappeared. When I got to the edge a pretty sight met my view, about half way down stood a tree, on one side of this was the sled and on the other the dogs in a sweet state. Evidently they had been unable to got out of the way of the sled and tried a side trail with the above result; I cut the tree, and told them to go to below and they won't, the sled first and the dogs yelling and struggling after, lastly your humble servant who had some broken harness to mend and some bruised dogs to attend to when he got down. We went back to camp after the one trip and found Sam and Chun who had evidently broken away from their keepers.

This morning Jarvis shot them both after asking me to do so. I couldn't shoot Sam at any rate. He worked himself nearly to death for us, and it is too hard. But we haven't very many salmon for them now and can’t afford it. This was a very warm day with snow and drizzling rain, we got over the portage all right and camped in Alec’s camp of yesterday, 14 miles from the Forks; I hope we have got clear of those canons, a few more would kill our dogs completely, and our own condition wouldn't be improved by them.  For my own part I can only say that on this trip I have worked harder than ever before; physically I mean, otherwise there is little to do.

We are travelling through an unknown country without a guide and take things as they come. Good night.

CHAS.

Jarvis Pass - Part 9 - Worthless Pass

Camp No. 15, 8th February, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

On the 4th we had a very heavy snowstorm, just to make things lively I suppose. Jarvis left early with two men and a very light sled, while the rest of us spent the day in getting the stuff over the portage and through the canon. It was a bad trail and the late snow hadn't improved it at all. The first trouble was a steep hill, about 150 feet high, and it took us all to get. one sled up at a time. The dogs didn't seem to care for the place at all and when two men would be hauling and two pushing the sled, ten to one the dogs would turn about and go down the hill. Tough on the whip. However, we got everything over safely about 4 P. M. and camped at end of canon. The next morning we were off bright and early and went only a short distance before we struck another canon and fall and had to follow another portage made by Jarvis. It wasn't very bad and with 8 dogs on each sled we took the stuff over in fair style. The worst part was at the further end where the descent to the river was almost perpendicular. Here the sled invariably reached bottom before the dogs, though the latter did their level best to get out of the way. It was killing work on the beasts; how they stand it I can’t see.

After crossing the portage we had canon all the afternoon and after working hard, very hard all day, we camped just 6 miles from last camp. I broke track all day, Jarvis' trail having drifted full. I managed it thus: Started off about 5 miles an hour and walked away some distance, then back to the dogs and then forward again, hoping to give them the benefit of three pair of snow shoes. We didn't get to camp till 6 and the dogs couldn't have gone another mile. Poor beggars, sometimes I am sorry for them, but that don’t pay, we can’t afford to rest them or ourselves and we both need it.

On the 6th we had very warm weather which made it worse. We passed another fall, and had the usual amount of hauling, dog whipping and general hard work. Road bad enough for anything. Overflowed with water and no track visible, though Jarvis and men passed over it only the day before; at 10 A. M. on the 7th we came to the forks (No. 3) and I got a note from Jarvis with instructions to follow N. Fork up to where I'd find his sled. This I did and camped there. Jams came in in the evening, having been to head of South Branch and found no pass. He had also fired at a moose but the distance was too great and he didn't hit. A moose would be a great thing for us, as with it we could take a rest and food ourselves and dogs. Though we are not very hard up yet if the rations be a leetle small.

To-day 1 have been 7 miles up this the N. Branch. Above camp 1 mile is a fall of 200 feet which I went around via side of mountain, above that the river widens out and meanders through muskeg and meadow for three miles, then it gets rapid and canony and turns to north. Evidently it rises in the mounting and comes from glaciers.

Camp No. 15. Continued.

I turned when I had reached an elevation of 4, 000 ft., which is 250 ft. higher than the Yellow Head Pass; so that from an engineering point this branch a worthless. There is nothing left for us now but to retrace our stops to Camp No. 9 and try the south branch. This we will do to-morrow. We both feel that it is tough to turn back but the quality of the Smoky River Pass must be known and we are going to find it out. The Stewart Lake Indians are delighted, as they think we are going to Fort George. Johnny is as unmoved as ever, and Alec ready for anything. So good-night.

Yours sleepily,

C. F. H.

Jarvis Pass - Part 8 - North Fork of Fraser

Hanington’s Cache, January 28th, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

On the 27th Alec and Johnny, with two trains of dogs, left to bring up the sled I had cached at the mouth of the river. It snowed nearly all day and camp was most miserable in consequence. This morning we had a consultation and concluded that the Stewart Lake trains would fail to appear, so as we are bound to get through this pass, we set to work to make a toboggan to be drawn by ourselves. We had it in a good state about 5 P. M. when in came Alec and Johnny with trains, and with them three trains from Stewart's Lake. A very agreeable surprise to us, I can tell you, trains loaded with salmon and drawn by good looking dogs. The drivers are Hassiack, Ahkho, and Tsayass, smart looking fellows. So we are now in good trim and high spirits. We had letter from Bovil, who reports that the pugilistic Indian came to him and asked to be forgiven, so they are now friends and happy. Alec met the trains at the mouth of the river arid they made good time up here; I am delighted at the arrival, as I never was fond of hauling a toboggan through four or five feet of snow. Jarvis looks happy and relieved in mind.

I'll turn in now and finish the night thus.

Yours,

C. F. H.

The Fork, Camp No. 9, 30th Jan., 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

We spent the 29th in packing the sleds and getting everything ready for a start. We have now 5 trains of 19 dogs. Tiger was shot on the 29th, as his lameness prevented him from doing anything but eat grub. We had about one month’s grub when we came to examine it; that is one month’s full rations for men and dogs, but we won’t use lull rations, so it must last longer. We started bright and early this morning, and found the track, for the most part, drifted full, sometimes it would be visible and then we made good time, the new dogs doing very well.

We had to leave some bacon and beans in my cache, the dogs not being able to take all of it. We did 18 miles to-day, and our camp is at the Forks to-night. If this be the place meant by Quaw when he said 3 days’ journey to the Forks, we must have walked very slowly. I believe though that he knows nothing about the country. The North and South branches are here about the same width, 200 feet. Our camp is between the two.

Camp No. 12, Feb. 3rd, 1875.

Dear Edward, —

We followed Quaw’s instructions, and took the North Branch. On the 31st we had a blinding snowstorm, which filled the track completely and didn't surprise us by doing so. The weather has been pretty cold and the travelling bad now. Took an observation at noon on 1st and made Lat. 54 degees 26’ North. On that day Sam’s shoulders were so much galled that the beast couldn't work and was turned out to run; on the 2nd we came to the conclusion that this sort of work will kill the clogs completely, so Jarvis started off with one train and throe men, while Alec, Johnny and I spent the day waiting for a track to be made. In this country a track made in the coldest weather will with one night’s frost harden so that it will boar dogs and loaded sleds easily; hence the two parties. I enjoyed the rest very much and did some mending on trowsers and shirts, duplicates of which I have none. This morning I had the camp up long before day and we had to wait for light to show us the dogs. We made good time over a capital track, but it wasn't much use, 9 miles up we found Jarvis making a portage around  "falls as high as a tree," so this afternoon we all were at that and got through about 5. The portage is 3 miles long and after passing the falls we have some very bad canon to go through. The river is open for the most part, and we have only a narrow ledge of ice and snow to make a track on. On the right rises perpendicular rook 400 or 500 feet high, on our left is the river roaring and rushing 20 feet below. This ledge was formed when the water was high and when the river subsided it was left. High water mark is here some 60 feet above our heads and it must be a grand looking place at high water.

To-night we are all in camp here, where we returned from portage building.

We begin to believe that Quaw is not a liar, sure this fall is as  "high as a tree" but his days must have been short.

Yours, C. F. H.

Jarvis Pass - Part 7 - The High Price of Salmon

SALMON Cache, Bear River,

21st January, 1875.

My Dear Edward,—

I left camp No. 7 yesterday at 11 and with the light trains over very bad snow made 22 miles to last night’s camp. I would have gone further than that but Quaw, who broke track, was used up, so I stopped. This morning we were at the portage early and started across it, Quaw said it was good for dogs. Quaw is a liar, and I believe he never saw the portage before, at any rate he couldn’t find it half the time. However, after much climbing, hauling the dogs up and letting them down perpendicular places by ropes (the truth) we got to Bear River at 4 p. m. Distance across portage about 3 miles, which we did in 7 hours hard travelling, I am mad to-night and have been giving Quaw a piece of my mind. After getting to Bear River, we came up 5 miles and found the cache in a good state of preservation.   Quaw has quite a house here and in it we now sit. Brush on the floor, a good fire and a dry roof overhead, all make a very good picture, which I’d like to sketch.

The salmon caches are outside in some large pine trees, where the bears and wolverine cannot get.

HANINGTON CACHE, 26th January, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

On the 22nd  entered into a discussion with Quaw as to the benefit to be derived from a cheap sale of salmon. Among other things I told him he would certainly have a fair chance of going to Heaven when ho died, all of which being spoken in the chaste language of the Chinook, he took into his heart. The end of it was, that after breakfast he handed over 650 salmon at 10 cents each, and he also helped to pack them on the two dog sleds. The noble red man is a strange individual. Last summer when the salmon were running up the river, and we wanted some, fresh, Quaw wanted us to pay $1.50 each for them, now after having cured and dried them he sells ten for one dollar. Quaw says he has been up the pass we are going to explore and that it is good, but he won't go as guide at any price I tried him again when at his cache, but no go; he says "In three days journey you will got to a fork of the N. Fork, take the left. In two days more you will strike a fall as high as a tree, which you will have to portage around. In 5 days more you will see meadows and a very small stream running through. After that you will travel 3 days when you will find water running east, and you will see the sun rise out of the prairie."  This is a very good prospect for us, if his word can only be depended upon, but I’d rather see the old chap go up as guide than hear all his ways and means of getting through the pass.

The great point is, how long are Quaw’s "Suns" or days, but that we'll find out in time. Well, as I said before. I got the salmon loaded on the sleds and having given Quaw an order on the H. B. Co. for his money (which they will probably pay in goods at 500 per cent profit) I said good bye, wishing him success in his trappings, &c., and left. Te Jon takes one train and I my own and we came around by Bear River, the portage being as I said before; the travelling on Bear River was very bad and I soon had to make Te Jon drive both trains while I broke track. We got only live miles down river and camped, the dogs being completely played out. I broke track a few miles ahead after we got comfortable for the night. The next day was a little better and we made 8 miles, getting two miles below the mouth of Bear River, but I had to leave one sled at Bear River, and putting 8 dogs on the other drove to camp. Then while I made ready for the night, Te Jon went back and brought up last sled. In the evening I broke track ahead. The next day we found the river frightful, the water having overflowed on account of the heavy snow. As you can imagine, the sleds stuck fast in the slush, and we have to get poles, turn them (the sleds) over and scrape off the bottoms, then we go on a few more yards, when we repeat. It was fearful both on men and dogs, and I was delighted when I saw the N. Fork on which hoped to see some remains of the track we made on the way down; we got there about

3 o’clock on the 25th, with one sled and 8 dogs hauling, so I set Te Jon at the camp and went back for the remaining sled; 8 dogs make a fine train, I can tell you, but they have had such a hard time of it that their spirits are about broken. It was late when I got that sled to camp and it didn’t take much cradling to send me to sleep. This morning I made up my mind to leave one sled here, and with the other and all the dogs, go to my cache before night. This I did and we left camp early.  It snowed hard all day but we got here at 4 o'clock, altho' we had some overflowed ice to work with.

I forgot to say that three miles from here we found a fresh track and after that we came in in fine style. I found Jarvis and the others here, having returned today from the trip up river. They report a good track ahead now, but to night will till it up I think. A heavy snow storm. So far we have never seen a track remain open more than one day, but this may be an exception to the rule.

I have had a square feed to-night. My stock of grub having given out some time ago, and my taste for salmon not being developed yet, I have been hungry.

Jarvis is sorry that Quaw didn’t come back as guide, but as usual we agree in saying that so far " the country’s quite Safe. "

But I'll turn in—good night.

C. F. H.

Jarvis Pass - Part 6 - Colder than Hell -53

Note: Bear River is the Bowron River, and the North Fork in this case, is the McGregor River 

Camp No. 4, Fraser River,

17th  Jan'y., 1875.

My Dear Edward,—

We got away from Fort George on the 14^th,  Jan'y  about 2 p. m. and camped 7 miles up River.  Bovil looked very sad as he won't see any white man ‘till next spring. We took with us "Quaw," an Indian who has fish on Bear River (see plan) and " Te Jon " an Indian boy. It was very cold—53° and my nose as usual got fits. We camped in the old style with boughs at our backs and under us and a good fire in front. Each man has two pairs of blankets and all his clothes on his back. This avoids loading the dogs too heavily and at any rate one needs them at night. The first night I can’t say I slept very peacefully,—53° don't allow that, but I slept a little and that's something. We were up early next day and had breakfast at once, no time being lost in washing or dressing. I found my leader (" Marquis ") with both fore feet frozen hard that morning, so I had to let him run loose and try three dogs. We killed a grouse today,  " Quaw " having a gun with him. I forgot to say that we have a rifle and cartridges, but we left the gun in Quesnelle, too heavy to pack. This morning poor old Marquis' feet wore in a dread­ful state, having frozen and thawed several times, so he had to be shot and it was done accordingly.  Jarvis did the deed and we left the good old brute at our last night's camp more comfortable than he has been since he froze his feet. We had some hard travelling today through the Giscome Rapids where open water kept us off the river. All the dogs are lame, very lame. Their feet get wet and the snow sticks to them, then of course the poor brutes pull the lumps off with their teeth and in the hurry they bite their toes fearfully, but we can't help that and they must go on sore or not. I can't imagine a quicker way to harden a man’s heart than to put him driving dogs.

This is Sunday in civilization, the only thing we have to remind us of the fact is the date in our diaries and I suppose we won't have one till we got to the east side of the mountains.  Our camp to night is 52 miles from Fort George and about 12 miles below mouth of North Fork. Still very cold indeed.

Hanington's Cache,

Camp No. 7, Jan’y., 20th, '75.

My Dear Edward,—

Here we are at last, 82 miles from Fort George, in 7 days. We came along pretty well, though as I said before the dogs were very lame indeed and the travel­ling bad in many places. We saw a ptarmigan on the 18th, the only one I over came across, a very pretty white bird, smaller than our partridge, and very fond of snow-clad mountains, where it stays in summer. We have four feet of snow, and find it hard work to shovel out room for camp, but so far we have done it always, it has been very cold and my poor nose has caught it often.  A common wind in  summer would freeze it anyhow I believe.

These dogs of ours are rather used up, bat I have shod most of my throe with doer skin shoes and they are getting over their lameness. The Chief (Jarvis) and Quaw now generally break track ahead of the trains ; about noon they are sometimes half a mile ahead, when they stop to make a fire for lunch. N. B. At the first stroke of the axe, dogs which a moment before could scarcely crawl, prick up their ears and take the load along as if it were nothing. It's no use to yell, “ulwa", they won't stop till they get to the fire.  I think it would be a good idea to keep a man ahead to chop the dogs along, instead of having one behind for the same purpose.

We got hero at 9 a.m., and I leave in an hour for Salmon Cache, taking Quaw and Te Jon with me, also two trains empty to bring up a fish supply.

While we are away, Jarvis, Alec and Johnny are going ahead to break track and we hope to hear of the Stewart's Lake trains before we meet here on my return. There is a good deal of fresh snow on the ground and the river in consequence is overflowed. This as you can understand makes it lively for the dogs, and gives us exercise in hauling dogs as well as in driving them.  But I'll close this for the- present as I must leave for Bear River.

C. F. H.

Jarvis Pass - Part 5 - Jack the 'Cur ' and Bovil's Fight!

Fort George, January 7, 1875.

My Dear Edward,—

After 'Xmas we began to look for Alec every day and finally to fear that he had fallen into the river which he was ordered to follow on his return. Our time was spent in taking long walks up and down the river and in cutting ft. trail around some open water a few miles above; the season is getting on and it begins to look as if we wouldn't get off before spring. Still we flatter ourselves that the “country is quite safe." To-day we started an Indian down the river to look up Alec, giving him orders to bring him dead or alive, so I hope we will hear something in a few days more. We are O. K., the dog’s ditto. Bovil has a queer specimen of a cur which he fondly imagines is well bred. His dog's name is Jack; he doesn't know it himself, but Bovil says so. His obedience is really wonderful, when Bovil says " come here Jack," he starts at once to get under the bed, and then his master says, " that's right go and lie down under the bed, you beast," or else he gets the beast in one hand and a dog whip In the other, and makes music for the million. We are having some snowshoes and toboggans (dog sleds) made while we wait; ours are pretty well used up in the Quesnelle trip.

Fort George, January 13th, 1875.

My Dear Edward,—

On the 8th of this month, the day after we started the Indian to look for Alec he returned having met the youth down the river a day's travel. Alec had a hard trip, having brought the dogs, sleds and loads up the river as far as 1^st Canon in a canoe. He then started up the river with the train, but the ice was very bad and he finally had to leave his load, the dogs being played out for want of grub. You see he had started from Quesnelle with six days' grub expecting to make quick time on the river. At Blackwater, he got an Indian to help him and together the three packed a good part of the load up, one important part was a mail containing letters from home. The 8th was very cold, —47°, but as I had given you a register already, I won't repeat all the thermometer readings in my letters. Alec and Johnny returned with fresh dogs the next day after arriving and brought up the sled, &c, on the l2th; between the 9th and 12th we had sent off a H. B. Co.'s servant to buy salmon for us, and on the 13th he arrived bringing with him a messenger from Ogden saying that the trains would be on hand in a few days. So we are now all ready to start on the Smoky River Exploration, and will leave tomorrow, I think. Before I give you an idea of how our loads, &c., are made up, I must tell you of a fight we had in the house this afternoon. We were sitting smoking quietly when the door opened and in walked an Indian, he made straight for Bovil, and before you could say " Jack," he hit at him with a hardwood club made for the purpose; fortunately Bovil caught part of the blow with his arm or it would have been the last of him, he then jumped up and grabbed the Indian and around the room they waltzed, each trying to get a good blow; at last I saw the Indian feel for his knife, so I took a hand by getting my dog whip and putting the handle into Bovil's hand. The handle is loaded you know, for the purpose of knocking down a refractory dog. Well, as soon as Bovil felt his weapon, he jumped back, broke away from the noble red, and gave it to him good. After that, we had no trouble in dragging him to the door, where he remained some time after recovering, with the blood running down his face and his knife in his hand, ready to let daylight into our host. There was great excitement among the Indians, who gathered outside in crowds. Finally the savage was coaxed off and I was as glad as anyone to see him go, tho' I had a good six-shooter and wasn't much afraid. It seems that an Indian boy had told stories, lies, about Bovil and some squaw, for which Bovil kicked him well, hence the row, in which the father sought to revenge the kicking of his son.

All's well that ends well, but Bovil had better be careful with these brutes.

Here I will give you an idea of what we have to consider in making up our load:

First, grub per man per day, 4 lbs. 4 men ...............................  16 lbs.

                             “     “   dog     “         2 lbs. 8 dogs …………………….. 16 lbs.

32 lbs.

Blankets, instruments, kitchen, &c., &c., for 4 men.................. 150 lbs.

2 dog trains will carry, No. 1..................................................... 250 lbs.

No. 2................................................. 350 lbs.

                                                            600

Subtract.................................................................... 150

32/ 450 /-14 days.

130

So we leave to-morrow morning with only 14 days' grub for all, but at " Hanington's cache" there is bacon and flour and at Bear River we will get some salmon. So when the Stewart Lake trains arrive we will be able to go on again with full loads. The C.P.R. rations amount to 4 lbs. 5 oz. per day,  and it is all eaten, the air in these moun­tains giving one a great appetite. I will give you the ration list on a separate sheet.

I have been puzzling over our supplies and from what I can make out we will have some small rations before we got through, but our instruments must go or else we might as well stay. The weights I have given for our dead weight (articles not grub) are under the real weight I am sure.

But Good Night, Yours, C.F.H.