54 Degrees 23' N. near Camp 33, 72 miles North of McBride
86 Miles from Summit, Camp 33, Smoky River, March 5th, 1875.
Dear Edward, —
The 2nd was very unpleasant, a heavy snow storm, river overflowed and deep snow, river turning more to the north and dogs getting awfully used up.
Our camp on the 3rd was at mouth of small stream from south and we had not a very comfortable evening. Another dog died that day, died of starvation, and worse still the river turned more to the north, and that as I said before means Smoky River.
Yesterday we camped 1 mile above a small fork from south, and after plotting up our work concluded that this river is Smoky River beyond a doubt. We saw an old track of a snow-shoe, but the maker may be hundreds of miles away by this time.
I got very bad with mal de raquette yesterday and cannot recommend it as a travelling companion to any one who has to travel every day and all day.
To day we have been in camp all day making packs and a cache in which we will leave our heavy stuff. By observation at noon we find we are in latitude 54 degrees 23' N. We will strike across country from here steering by the compass with our dogs following us. Our packs won’t be heavy, (very); mine is about 33 lbs., but with mal de raquette it will be heavier a good deal. We are going to take one sled, but it will be light, the others remain here “ to be called for ” I hope, but not by us. We will leave no grub of course, but our sextant, stationery, books, &c &c., with extra clothing remain here; the last clause doesn't trouble me as I put on my trowsors, drawers and shirts at Quesnelle and won’t take them off till we reach Edmonton.
By the way, I forgot to mention that at Camp 15, and also at the Summit, we washed our faces and hands. It’s a fact! The first time at Camp 15, and then again at the “ Summit. ” I don’t know the reason for the first wash, unless it was disgust at having to turn back. The last was a wish to leave all the British Columbia dust behind us. To proceed. I may mention that the men from Stewart’s Lake are getting longer faces every day, and they evidently don’t think much of this trip, either past or future. Alec is all right and Johnny as good-natured as ever. His constant sentence is, “ Cultus kopajnika. Cultus kopa mika ”—“ What’s bad for me is bad for you ”
And now I’ll stop for to-night.
Yours,
C. F. H.
Camp No. 34, 6th March, 1875.
To-day we start'd early with our packs on our backs, on small rations. Climbed all day, and were glad enough to stop to night, having done seven miles. We are on a high piece of ground to-night, and before us lies a large valley, so we will have down-hill work to-morrow. My pack to-night weighed 300 lbs. at least, and my legs are as sore as Jarvis’.
Yours,
C. F. H.
Camp No. 39, March 11th, 1875.
Don’t exactly know where.
My Dear Edward, —
On the 7th we had it down hill till we reached the valley before mentioned. Down-hill travelling is worse for mal de raquette than up-hill, though I didn't think so when we were climbing. At the bottom we found a large river, which we thought was the Athabasca. We followed it up a short distance, and then turned off on our old course, following up a tributary which seemed to come from that direction. We turned off for this reason. If this be the Athabasca, we will, in a few miles, strike the McLeod, and will then know where we are and be able to make St. Anne's easily. If not, it is useless and worse to follow up an unknown river. So we called it “This River. ” Jarvis and I still kept the lead, though the pain we felt at every step cannot be expressed in words.
As we turned a corner suddenly on the 8th, I in front saw two moose in the river about 150 feet from us. As is usual in such cases, the rifle was in the sled behind, and before we could get it the moose were away and lost. These were the first live things we had seen since we crossed the Summit, and our disappointment was very great when we missed killing one of them, we all stand so much in need of meat.
On the 9th we left the creek, which was as crooked as a corkscrew, and struck across country over valleys, hills and deep snow. Our camp that night was on a creek running north, and probably into the last river we saw. Our meat was nearly finished that night, and our stomachs felt empty.
Yesterday we had as usual very heavy walking across these valleys, In the afternoon when we were on a summit, before us we saw an immense valley, about 2 miles wide. You may imagine our delight: here was the end of our troubles and our want of grub in particular. So with renewed vigour we posted down. When we reached the bottom we found a muskeg with a small creek running through the middle of it, down went our spirits again. To day we came on a creek running about east so we followed it, and found the trail blazed as if by white men. To night everything was jolly as can be though our meat is done and our tea so small it can’t be counted. Alec shot a rabbit to-day, quite a feed for 6 men. River here 60 ft. wide, with grassy banks, etc.
But I must sleep; good night.
C. F. H.
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