CAMP No. 51.
McLEOD'S RIVER, 24th March, 1875.
My Dear Edward, —
We left the Depot very early, in a gale of wind which blow down the lake, our dogs, Cabree of my train, Captain of Alec’s and Musqua from Stewart’s Lake didn't offer to follow us as they preferred grub to starvation I suppose; we went down the Lake in a hurry, rather too fast for our own comfort sometimes, and then followed the Athabasca; having done 14 miles when we camped, had a little dried meat and a little bread for supper, turned in tired enough. Next day we followed the river 14 miles and then left it to take trail across to McLeod River camp 1 mile on trail. Found so walking warm that day and the rations very small for such hard work. On the 20th the walking was very bad and we only did 8 1/2 miles passing a lake in P. M. On Sunday the 2lst we did 4 miles to the McLeod and 8 down it on a trail made by one of the C. P. R. parties two years before. Very heavy travelling but the trail is better than the river which was overflowed.
22nd. Travelled 15 miles, 5 to portage across bend of river and 10 to camp. Nothing eventful my diary says, sick of this work, “ hard work and deuced small grub.” On the 23rd we did 16 1/2 miles, 1 to end of portage and 15 more down the river by trail, met Adam, a man from Edmonton, en route to Jasper House. He gave us some tea but his grub was about gone as he had been detained by the heavy travelling.
We had a cup of strong tea immediately, and it made us drunk, think of it, drunk on tea. He gave us some sugar which we ate up at once, like Indians exactly, and then we pushed on. On the 24th we made good time on Adam’s track and did 22 1/4 miles, though a little fresh snow fell in the evening, that is to-night. We start early and stop to lest every hour being not so strong as we once were. At night we stop, Jarvis and I clear up a place for camp, Alec and Johnny get brush and the others cut wood, as soon as camp is made Johnny cooks supper (so called) but long before that I am asleep. I am waked to cut my share, which is measured (by) the chief carefully and is hardly perceptible sometimes. Then I light my pipe and am asleep before I get a dozen pulls, so you will believe me when I say that I am about used up. Tobacco is the main stay; I chew it all day and smoke in the evening and it is a great improvement on nothing. Our tea now is everything for us, though that first very strong cup made a hole in the supply. However, we boil it over and over very carefully, Jarvis carrying the sack and putting in a fresh grain every time. But we know where we are perfectly and we would have no trouble in getting through were we not so much raised up when we left the Depot.
Camp No. 54, 27th March, 1875.
My Dear Brother, —
On the 25th we did 25 miles on the river, our grub getting very short, and the tea nearly gone. I had a sort of fainting fit that day so Jarvis went on a little farther made camp, leaving Alec to see me through; all right in evening, plenty of tobacco. On the 26th we followed the river 4 miles and then struck off easterly doing 9 more; had two hares for supper and the last of the bread. The men eat the insides without cleaning them, after they had taken their share of the meat.
Today it has been very warm and hard snow shoeing, we did 11 miles and struck a creek running east. Killed four hares to-day and had a first rate supper; though it night have been better.
I would give anything to-night for a good square meal of bacon, beans and bread, to say nothing of such a one as I often dream of. Still it is well I have something. Good night.
Yours hungrily,
C. F. H.
Camp 57, Lake St. Ann’s,
31st March, 1875.
My Dear Brother, —
On the 28th we did 18 miles and got nothing. My diary says, very hungry and it says truth. We crossed Dirt Lake or Chip Lake, and camped on the creek, snowing all night. On the 29th we did 23 miles, 15 1/2 to Pembina River, down it to Portage and 4 to camp beside a lake. We lived on tobacco and water, and though very weak made very good time with frequent rests. On the 30th, that is yesterday, it was warm and hard walking. Alec lay down several times, but toward evening we met an Indian who acted as guide, so we strained every nerve, C. F. H. in front, Jarvis next, then Alec and lastly the Indians; and we got to this Post at 7 P. M. in spite of all the hunger, weakness and misery. I could have gone a good deal farther that day, with that Indian in front, but when he stopped of course I was played out at once.
Mr. McGillvray, God bless him, set out a supper of white fish, potato as, milk, bread, sugar and tea and asked us to go at it. There wasn't a word said for about half an hour, and then we weren't able to speak much. For myself I staggered to a lounge where I suffered from the grub as much as I had from the want of it. This morning we were up at 5 and no one being awake I stole some bread. At 7 we had breakfast, a repetition of last night. After breakfast Alec and I took McGillvray's horse and cutter and went to the village, where is a R. C. Mission, to buy eggs, butter, at one of the half breed’s houses (a little mixed this) they asked as to eat and set out grilled buffalo bones, potatoes, tea, &c., and we had a capital feed, at another they gave us bread and milk which we did justice to. Then with a lot of eggs and cream (no butter) we returned to the home and spent the time till noon eating cream and sugar with our bread. At noon another fill, ate all the afternoon And evening and are now as hungry as ever though suffering from the effects of gluttony. This is the end of our great exploration so far as hunger and great danger are concerned. When I think of it, I wonder how we ever got through, for without any guide and knowledge of the country we could hardly expect it. To use Jarvis’ words, “ It is altogether too large a country for 6 men. ” My weight hero is 125 1/4 lbs. but I'll make up for it in a short time; I have necessarily written this sketch of the trip more in reference to myself than my chief. So here I want to say that the credit of the success of the exploration is due to E. W. Jarvis, whose judgment, energy and pluck brought us through. I only seconded him and did my best. But a divine Providence watched over us all through and we owe him our most heartfelt thanks.
Tomorrow we start for Edmonton, in two sleds with horses, and any amount of grub on board.
I'll write you from Fort Garry if not before.
I remain,
Your loving brother,
CHAS.
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